Borgo dei Conti Resort in Umbria

Borgo dei Conti is one of my favorite hotels in Italy!  This is a hotel that I inadvertently discovered when we extended our great winter adventure in December.  I am so glad that I did!  Whether you are looking to explore Umbria or Tuscany, or just want to get away from everything, this incredible resort will exceed your expectations.  Not only was I not ready to leave when we checked out, but I was already planning a return trip.    

We returned a few months later in April 2019 for Easter weekend and again in June 2021 and April 2022. They will be closed in 2023 for renovations, and we can’t wait to return in 2024!  

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Enjoying Dolce Far Niente at Borgo dei Conti

We booked a three night stay at Borgo dei Conti one week after they reopened in 2021.  I am so excited to share that the hotel did not miss a beat.  While some things have changed to accommodate the safety measures, the hospitality remains unparalleled.  The location of the hotel makes it perfect for an easy getaway with plenty of outdoor activities to facilitate your re-entry into travel.  We took advantage of wine tastings in Montefalco, olive oil tastings near Assisi, and, of course, the amazing facilities of the resort.

One of the biggest changes for 2021 is to the spa.  Like many luxury hotels, access to the spa is by reservation.  We were able to make 40 minute reservations while we were there.  The spa is very clean and the environment is even more sterile, so we felt perfectly safe taking advantage of the sauna and jacuzzi.  

While we were there, the Borgo launched a new outdoor wellness experience with a myriad of pathways through the surrounding park.  This experience offers a self-guided mediation through the natural elements that surround the Borgo.  I took advantage of this when I couldn’t get a spa reservation, and I found it to be a very relaxing way to spend the afternoon.  

Borgo dei Conti has worked to elevate its outdoor spaces and offers a comfortable area to watch open air movies, performances, and football (soccer) matches.  I felt like there were more spaces to be outside than before and plenty of comfortable chairs for working, resting, or reading.  This could be attributed to the fact that we were visiting in the summer vs. the spring or winter, but either way, I can tell that they are putting a lot of love into making the resort a place where everyone can be comfortable.    

Both hotel restaurants, Rura and La Terrazza, are open and take reservations.  The hotel bar is also open.  We took advantage of a late evening meal at La Terrazza after wrapping up meetings on US time, and they could not have been more accommodating.  The food was fresh and delicious.

The staff is where this hotel truly shines.  We’ve never had a bad experience here, and I can confidently same that the level of service and comfort remains the same in the post-pandemic world.             

Arrival at Borgo dei Conti

I highly suggest checking into Borgo dei Conti during daylight hours because it can be easy to miss the signs.  The resort is officially located in the hills of Boschetto Vecchio.  We did not know how far it would be off the main roads through Umbria, and our GPS attempted to take us down a gravel road to come up through the backside.  Fortunately, Tom is an expert navigator and we were able to back up without too much trouble.  Using google maps, we found the main entrance and the main drive and drove right to valet.  The friendly staff will jump out to meet you and help with luggage.

When we checked in, they let us know that they upgraded our room and we were welcome to have a drink in the bar while they whisked the luggage up to the room.  After a long drive from Venice, we were more than happy to oblige and enjoyed a glass of Sagrantino from nearby Montefalco.  (Borgo dei Conti is the reason why we scheduled wine tastings in Umbria!)  Because the resort was at limited occupancy, they did ask if we intended to have dinner at La Limonaia.  We had dinner reservations in Montefalco, so we opted out of dinner at the resort, but the restaurant offers beautiful views of the countryside.  I’m sure it’s especially magical in the fall, though it’s downright gorgeous in the spring and summer.

Side note:  If you’re looking for an easy dinner, Volpino is right down the road in Monte Petriolo.  It’s cheap and delicious.  You can walk to it from the resort.

Room 204 – Superior Room

After our wine, we made our way upstairs to Room 204, which was an upgrade from the classic double room we booked.  This particular room overlooks the front of the resort.  It is a large room with beautiful, high ceilings. A desk and a comfortable sitting area makes the room feel more like a suite than a standard room. Personally, I enjoy rooms with personality, and Borgo dei Conti is no exception.  There are books, objects, and a fireplace, all of which contribute to the room feeling extremely cozy.  There is also tea kettle, a mini bar, and bottled water available for guests.

The bathroom is also very spacious.  This particular room offers a separate bathtub and shower. I particularly enjoyed long soaks in the bathtub with the most delicious smelling bath salts.  It’s a propriety blend of lemon and lavender.   Tom attempted to research where we could purchase them, but they are a hotel exclusive!  I had no problem losing track of time reading about more hotels and restaurants in the Relais & Chateaux book.  (It’s how we ended up at La Sommita Relais in Ostuni!)

The room is very efficiently designed. The closet offers plenty of room for storing your suitcases while also providing space for hanging clothes and folded clothes.  There are plush robes and slippers that you can use to head down to the spa (or the pool).  Every single detail is carefully thought out and artfully designed.

In the evenings, as part of turndown service, they close the shutters and the beautiful navy drapes, which adds an extra romantic feeling to the room.

Room 206 – Superior Corner Room

When we returned in April 2019, I booked another superior room.  Similar to our previous stay, we were treated to a welcome drink while they prepared our room.  This room overlooked the pool and amphitheater and was incredibly quiet over Easter weekend.  While our December room could be classified as romantic, this room was more airy with lighter drapes and more windows.  To be sure, both rooms are incredible.

There are large windows in the room and the bathroom, so everything feels incredibly well-lit.  The bathroom was large with the same soaking tub, the best bath salts, and a single sink for getting ready.  As always, spa robes and plush terrycloth robes were included in the room.  We spent a lot more time at the spa on this trip.  I think we had a better idea of how to utilize the sauna and spa and we took full advantage of it.  My massage was excellent and very relaxing.

Room 103 – Classic Corner Room

When we returned to the resort in June 2021, I booked two classic rooms.  We ended up with rooms 103 and 104.  Room 103 is a corner room, while room 104 was an adjacent classic room.  Similar to the superior room, our classic room had large windows and felt very open and airy with high ceilings.  The wardrobe had plenty of space for hanging clothes, storing luggage, and a safe.    

The biggest difference between the classic and superior rooms, as far as I can tell, is that these rooms only offered a walk-in shower, rather than a bathtub and shower.  The shower water pressure, however, is still wonderful.  The classic room had a larger bathroom than the corner room, but we loved our view and the room overall.  

The classic rooms offer all the same amenities as the superior rooms and are very well laid out.  Tom appreciates that the classic rooms don’t have as much decor, so they feel very simple and streamlined.  The minimalistic design of the rooms truly creates a space where I feel like I can relax and think clearly, which was very helpful since I did have a bit of work to do while we were there.  I love that the desk is full-size and offers a comfortable chair.

Overall, our classic room felt very spacious and we were incredibly comfortable.       

5 Star Service

Beyond staying in a castle and the most amazing rooms, Borgo dei Conti resort really shines with service.  Despite the fact that we were one of the only guests on property, we never felt like we were inconveniencing the hotel staff.  The service at Borgo dei Conti parallels the service at the St. Regis Florence.

When Tom went to the bar to purchase a bottle of wine, they did not have the same one we tasted at check in, but they offered him a more expensive bottle for the same price.  Despite the fact that we did not order room service, they delivered the wine with plenty of appetizers directly to our room.  They kept the spa open so we could access the Turkish baths and whirlpools in the evening.  The spa treatments are very reasonably priced, too.  (I enjoyed a massage during our second visit in April 2019.)

Even when we checked out, they insisted upon helping with the luggage and encouraged us warmly to come back.  I don’t know that I’ve ever felt such sincere hospitality.  Borgo dei Conti is a five star resort all the way around, and it really shines with its commitment to service.

Borgo dei Conti Property Amenities

The best thing about this resort is that you could stay here and have everything you need for a relaxing weekend away from everything.  From the spa, to the pools, to the surrounding park, and the two restaurants, you definitely don’t have to leave the Borgo.  We’ve taken advantage of all the amenities, and I feel like the staff goes above and beyond to ensure that you have a comfortable stay.   

Borgo dei Conti Spa

Whether you visit in the summer or winter, the Borgo dei Conti spa is open for your use.  While we tend to gravitate to the saunas and jacuzzi, there is also an indoor / outdoor pool and a Turkish bath.  What I love about the spa is that it has plenty of windows, so you get to enjoy being immersed in nature from the comfort of the spa.

In addition to the spa facilities, the hotel also offers an extensive treatment menu that includes massages and facials.  I’ve always enjoyed my massages, which are very reasonably priced.  

La Terrazza Restaurant

The poolside pizzeria at Borgo dei Conti is one of the things I was most looking forward to trying when we visited in 2021.  It’s a seasonal restaurant with tables overlooking the pool and serves lunch and dinner.  In addition to delicious pizzas, they also offer local wines, craft beers from Umbria, and a cocktail menu.

My only regret is that I didn’t try the crescionda for dessert! 

Outdoor Spaces

As soon as we were settled in our room on our first trip, we headed out to explore the resort before it got dark.  There are two swimming pools, a spa, and plenty of places to sit and enjoy the serenity.  A gorgeous library that overlooks the grounds is on the first floor.  You can take a self-guided walk through the park, watch an open-air movie on a new terrace area, and we also noticed a tennis court and other athletic facilities if you’re feeling particularly sporty.  

For us, however, we just wanted to enjoy the view.  After realizing we were staying in an absolute castle, we purchased a bottle of wine (served with apertivo treats) from the hotel bar and headed to the courtyard to watch the sunset.  I cannot remember the last time I felt so content and still.

The beautiful pastel skies faded to a brilliant blue and Tom and I just sat there together enjoying the view.

Conclusion

Borgo dei Conti resort is a great base for exploring Tuscany and Umbria by car.  We spent quite a bit more time in Tuscany on our December trip because it is what we knew.  This is a great base for exploring Assisi, Perugia, and other Umbrian hill towns though.  This book on the Tuscan and Umbria hill towns is a great guide to the region.  It includes walking tours, scenic drives are more.

Borgo dei Conti was my first time staying at a Relais & Chateaux property, and now it’s one of the first places I look for hotel ideas!  The attention to detail – with both rooms and service – is unparalleled in today’s hotel industry.  This resort lives up to both the relaxation experience and the castle experience.

Pro Tip:  I always check the hotel website for the best rates and offers, but you should also check Tablet and become a PLUS member.  They offer room upgrades, resort credits, and other experiences that might make your stay extra special!