3 Days in Florence: A Complete First-Timer’s Guide

3 days in Florence is never enough, but if that’s all I (or you) can manage, I will take them every time.  As I’ve mentioned before, I studied abroad in Florence, Italy so it holds a special place in my heart.  Like Georgette once said, it’s like Florence can feel your emotion, and I find that comforting.  I went abroad during a very difficult time in my life.  I was struggling with several issues – all of which were mostly resolved by the time I came home.  Florence is a city of healing for me.  It is where I learned photography, ignited my wanderlust, and became comfortable in my own skin.

In 2015, I got to share parts of that with my husband as we spent part of our honeymoon in Florence.  (Like Aimee I apparently have an unwritten agreement that says my feet much touch Florentine soil at least once a year.  It’s worked out for me so far.  Florence cannot be all those things for everyone, but I do hope that people can experience parts of “my” Florence.  It will always be on my list of places you should go.

07/2021 Update:  Updated to include new hotel and tour recommendations!

Disclosure:  This post contains affiliate links for tours and products I love at no additional cost to you.  You can read my full disclosure policy here.

Florence Itinerary Suggestions

It will be impossible to see everything in Florence in 3 days.  There are so many amazing landmarks in Florence to visit.  Make your peace with that. The city is walkable, but you’ll want to group attractions together by neighborhood to get the most out of your visit. In this particular case, I focused the 3 days in Florence around the Uffizi area, the Oltrarno, and the area around the Accademia.  If you only have 2 days in Florence, pick one of the museum days and couple it with a visit to the Oltrarno. If you’re looking for a great One Day in Florence Itinerary, Toti and Alessia have a great one on their blog!

I always recommend taking a break during the middle of the day.  This is when it is the hottest and the city is most crowded.  We like getting out to enjoy the city, taking a break in the mid-day, and going out again in the late afternoon/evening.

You will want to make sure you have dinner reservations in advance.  Your hotel can help with booking these.

Day One in Florence

• 9:30 – Start your day at Santa Croce (or Museo Galileo, if science is more your thing) when it opens.
• Head to Piazza della Signoria.  Check out the courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio and enjoy the Loggia dei Lanzi.  If you’re feeling particularly ambitious, head to Orsanmichele for more religious art.
• 12:00 – Quick lunch at ‘Ino, Da’ Vinattieri, or I’ Girone De’ Ghiotti
• 1:30 – Uffizi Gallery tour
• Gelato o’clock at Gelateria dei Neri, Gelateria Santa Trinita or La Carraia
• Head back to your hotel for a little R&R.
• Watch the sunset over the Ponte Vecchio from one of the other other bridges in Florence.
• 7:30 (or later) – Enjoy a leisurely dinner at Sostanza, Buca dell’Orafo, Trattoria Nella, or Osteria Santo Spirito
• End  your night with a stroll through Florence’s most beautiful piazzas – Piazza della Duomo, Piazza della Repubblica, and Piazza della Signoria.  Enjoy the musicians.  Treat yourself to gelato from Edoardo (next to the Duomo).

Day Two in Florence

• Take the Ponte Vecchio to the Oltrarno before it gets too busy.  The gold shops won’t be open, but you’ll have the bridge all to yourself.
• 8:15am – Head to the Pitti Palace / Boboli Gardens or the Bardini Gardens and start your day outside.  Enjoy some of the most breathtaking views of Florence before it gets too hot.
• Wander the backstreets of the Oltrarno and check out the artisan workshops.  The shopping is more interesting on this side of the river, unless you’re looking for the designer names.  Make sure to visit Chiesa di Santa Felicita.
• Before grabbing an easy lunch at Raddi, Gusta Pizza, Gusta Panino,  Tamero, or Osteria Santo Spirito, visit the Santo Spirito Church.
• Finish off your lunch with gelato from Santa Trinita or La Carraia and walk back towards the Ponte Vecchio by way of the Arno.
• Head back to your hotel for a midday break.  If you aren’t a mid-day break kind of person, head back across the Arno to the DaVinci Museum.
• 4:00/4:30 – Head to the Duomo for one of the last entries of the day.
• Grab a cab or a bus to the Piazzale Michelangelo / San Minato al Monte for sunset.  You can take a bus, a cab, or walk.  (It’s easier to walk down than it is to walk up.)  If it’s supposed to be rainy, book a tour of the Palazzo Vecchio instead.
• Have a late dinner at the Golden View.  (Book a table overlooking the Ponte Vecchio in advance.)  If you’re too tired from the Piazza Michelangelo climb, you can have an easy dinner at i Bastioni di San Niccolo Pizzeria.

Day Three in Florence

• Head to the Accademia for your pre-booked early morning tour.  Enjoy seeing the David up, close, and personal with (fewer) crowds.  If you can’t do more art, head to the DaVinci Museum instead.
• Head to the Mercato Centrale / leather market for shopping and lunch.  (My favorite lunch in Florence is the 5 euro fresh pasta on the bottom floor of the Mercato Centrale.  You’ll have more options upstairs, but I prefer the fresh pasta.  Find the bakery that sells occhi di bue for a sweet treat.
• Take a mid-afternoon break while the crowds descend on Florence.
• If a break isn’t your thing, head to the DaVinci Museum, the Medici Chapel, or the Basilica of Santa Maria Novella.
• Have your final dinner in Florence with a view by making a reservation at La Reggia degli Etruschi in Fiesole.  Take the bus back to Florence.  You’ll get off in front of Santa Maria Novella, and you can spend your last evening wandering through the magical streets and piazzas of Florence.

Florence Tours – Getting Your Culture Fix in Florence

Florentine museum culture can be daunting for even the most fervent art lovers.  (I know; I’m friends with some of them.)  That being said, I don’t know that you can go to Florence without seeing the museums.  I mean, you can… but will you really understand how incredible the Renaissance is without that perspective?  Probably not.  The Firenze card is a great option if you only have 3 days in Florence, but you will still need/want a reservation for the museums and the Duomo’s cupola.  Even priority access lines can be long in Florence.

Here are a few things I highly recommend for people who want to get the most out of their visit to Florence (and not spend all their time in line).

Uffizi Gallery

BOOK THIS: Skip the Line Uffizi Walking Tour – Our guide, William, was incredible.  In fact, had we not waited so long in our trip to book this tour, we would have hired him for private tours.  The size of the Uffizi is absolutely daunting and we did not have any perspective for Renaissance art.  William walked us through various (read: popular) rooms of the Uffizi, helping us understand not only the art but also the political context in which the Renaissance was born.  Obviously, we saw the “big” works of art like The Birth of Venus, but William also taught us a lot about what makes Renaissance art different. He showed us how these artists were able to take flat paintings to new dimensions using color.

I found this to be a great introduction to the museum, the time period, and the art.  I highly recommend it to anyone visiting the Uffizi for the first time.  William’s passion for the subject was contagious and he refused to be deterred by the somewhat sluggish enthusiasm by our group.

The only drawback of this tour is that it begins at 1:30; I recommend going on an empty stomach so as not to experience the post-lunch lag.  If you decide not to do a tour, buy your tickets in advance or have your concierge reserve them. Don’t spend all day in line.  Seriously.  Skip the line.  It’s totally a thing.

Da Vinci Museum

VISIT THIS: Museo Leonardo da Vinci – If you are travel with scientists, engineers, or children, this museum is for you!  It is small, but they have rebuilt some of da Vinci’s contraptions exactly as his drawings called for and it’s incredible to see how progressive he was for his time period.  When I visited the da Vinci Museum, I finally understood what it means to be a “Renaissance scholar.”  I know that we like to classify ourselves as “math people” and “non-math people”, but da Vinci proves that you can do both.  Art and science complement each other.

Bonus/fun fact:  It’s located on via dei Servi and right across the street from my apartment!

Gallery Accademia

BOOK THIS:  Timed Entry Ticket & Galleria dell Accademia Tour – Yet another amazing site that was a block from my apartment.  The original David is housed here, so again, you’ll want to buy tickets in advance. Book a skip the line ticket or have your concierge arrange your visit.  I’ve seen these lines snake for blocks down via Ricasoli during high season so save yourself the headache.  I’ve never not seen a line, regardless of the time of year.  This tour provided more insight on the other works in the museum and ended with the David.  Nothing truly prepared me for what it felt like to see this piece in person.  It’s truly not just another sculpture; it’s hard to imagine how Michelangelo was able to create it.  You need to see this, even if you don’t consider yourself a fan of sculpture.  It’s truly beautiful.

Galileo Museum

VISIT THIS:  Museo Galileo wasn’t my favorite museum to visit, but I’ve recommended it to other scientist/engineer types and they LOVED it. You’ll have to decide for yourself.  There are some really cool things in here, but there wasn’t as much about Galileo has I had hoped.  It’s tucked away on the back side of the Uffizi and offers beautiful views overlooking the Arno.  I would go when it’s least likely to be crowded because it could feel pretty stuffy. We found after lunch to be a good time for our visit.

Palazzo Vecchio

The Palazzo Vecchio sits in my favorite Piazza della Signoria, and I never thought about what was inside.  I think someone told me it was city offices, and that was that.  One evening, I saw that the doors were open and I found myself inside a beautiful courtyard.  When it came time to plan another trip to Florence, I booked a tour of the Palazzo Vecchio.  It’s a great tour to get an idea of the historical and political timelines of Florence.   You learn more about the Papal rule, the secret hiding places of the Palazzos, and see the huge rooms where political assemblies were held (and Inferno was filmed).  As you climb the stairs of the Palazzo, you will learn more about the rivalries between Florence, Siena, and Pisa.

At the end of the tour, you can make your way up the tower to watch the sunset.  It is beautiful.

BOOK THIS TOUR:  Palazzo Vecchio Tour

Florence with a View

What trip to Florence is complete if you don’t include a list of places where you can experience the same views of Florence that the Renaissance painters did?  Sunrises and sunsets in Florence are especially magical, but don’t forget to look the other way to see the reflection on the opposite side of the sky.  You can also see views of the Florentine countryside from the Duomo cupola or Giotto’s bell tower, but I prefer the views below with limited time in Florence.

Piazzale Michelangelo / San Miniato al Monte

Piazzale Michelangelo – I’ve talked about this place before. It remains one of my favorite places to watch the sunset.  You can take a bottle of wine, some snacks (hello Eataly – you’re so affordable I can’t even be mad that you took over my favorite bookstore), and enjoy the experience along with a couple hundred of your closest friends (take that for what it’s worth). The sunrise can be particularly beautiful and less crowded, but it requires you to get moving pretty early. The Piazza Michelangelo allows you to experience the vibrant colors of sunset that inspired numerous artists from the Renaissance and beyond.

If crowds aren’t your thing, keep climbing to San Miniato al Monte.  It’s considerably less crowded and offers similar views.

Boboli Gardens (and Pitti Palace)

VISIT THIS:  Boboli Gardens / Pitti Palace – If you want to feel like you have this place to yourself, go when they open.  We arrived shortly after opening, and despite a few school groups, we managed to wander around the gardens for a few hours.  At some point, we emerged onto the terrace near the Porcelain Museum and found ourselves staring at the rolling hills of the Tuscan countryside.  Absolutely breathtaking.  You don’t even realize how far above the city you get and, all of the sudden, you find a completely difference side of Florence.  One of my favorite experiences ever.  I still love to imagine what it must have been like to live there and have those gardens be your backyard.  (I’m quite intrigued by the idea of the Vasari Corridor that runs from the Uffizi but I’ve yet to explore it.)

Bardini Gardens

Andrea at the St. Regis suggested the Bardini gardens to us.  It’s definitely less busy than the Boboli Gardens, but the views are just as lovely.  In the spring, the wisteria blooms and smells absolutely divine.  Just watch out for the bees.  (I’m allergic; it is both beautiful and terrifying.)  We really enjoyed spending the morning strolling the grounds.

Golden View

EAT & DRINK:  The Golden View Restaurant and Bar – Again, maybe it’s the nostalgia factor (my friends took me here for my 22nd birthday) but there’s something magical about getting a table overlooking the Ponte Vecchio at night.  There’s an extensive menu (something for everyone), live music, energetic ambiance, and a view.  What’s not to love?  (I’ll own the fact that it might be considered a little touristy.  I definitely come for the view though.)

Under-Appreciated Churches of Florence

Santa Croce

VISIT THIS:  Basilica of St. Croce – Everyone comes to Florence to ooh and ahh over il Duomo and its dome (and rightly so) but keep walking and find St. Croce.  It looks quite a bit smaller than the Duomo, but the inside reveals that you can’t judge a basilica by its facade!  In the early morning light, it is positively enchanting.  You have to go inside.  I also love the artists that hang out in the piazza – they don’t get started until mid-morning, but I find their work to be more authentic than the more touristy areas of Florence.

Orsanmichele Church and Museum

You will pass this church multiple times and probably never notice it.  It boasts one of the most beautiful altar pieces I’ve ever seen.  It’s a beautiful place to sit and rest your feet while taking in the fact that it is a former grain storage facility and you can still see the remnants of that.  The stained glass is also particularly beautiful.  Everything you see in Orsanmichele feels life-like, as though you could insert yourself into the art.  It’s truly beautiful.  Make sure to walk around the entire church to see all the sculptures in their niches – they were novel for their time because they are actually outside of their niche, rather than inside of it.  These artists are truly marvels in their own rights.

VISIT THIS:  Orsanmichele Church and Museum

More Things to Do in Florence

Medici Chapels and Church of San Lorenzo

A few steps from the Mercato Centrale is the Medici Chapel complex.  If you know a lot about Florentine history or the Medici family, I think you can jump right into this museum.  If you don’t (and we didn’t), I would recommend taking this night tour of Florence and then visiting the Medici chapels.  Either way, I don’t recommend it as one of the first things you do in Florence.  I think the ceiling of the Chapel of the Princes is absolutely breathtaking and the sculpture in the New Sacristy is incredible to see.  I’ve never seen the lines be too long, but you can book a skip the line ticket in advance.

BOOK THIS:  Florence evening walking tour

SKIP THE LINE:  Medici Chapel and Church of San Lorenzo

Food Tour of Florence // Wine Tour of Florence

What is Florence without Chianti?  We love this sunset walking tour of Florence.  It crosses both sides of the Arno and introduces you to the different types of Tuscan wine.  It’s the perfect introduction to the Florentine aperitivo and you’ll get to try different crostini with your wines.  While we’ve certainly had better wine tasting experiences in Tuscany, it’s a great way to see more of Florence on foot.

There are also a number of delicious Florence food tours that are worth considering.  I recommend the sunset tour or the Oltrarno tour.  (Almost every single one of our tour guides raves about restaurants on the Oltrarno.  We are still trying to find all of our favorites, but we’ve had some delicious experiences.)

BOOK THIS:  Sunset wine tour of Florence

EAT & DRINK:  Florence food tour

Fiat 500 Tour of the Florence Countryside

If you’re feeling really adventurous or you can’t bear to not enjoy the rolling hills of Tuscany, skip the day trips and book this vintage Fiat 500 driving tour instead.  You need to be able to drive a standard; vintage Fiats have a double clutch system.  Bring your patience and don’t surprise your husband with this tour.  (I know from experience.  Tell him in advance so he can prepare.)  Nico is a great guide and the views are beautiful.  We enjoyed watching the sunset with wine, cheese, and prosciutto.  FYI:  You’ll want to take a cab to and from the location though.

BOOK THIS:  Sunset driving tour outside of Florence

Day Trips from Florence

I don’t think 3 days in Florence is enough to take a day trip.  There is so much to see and do in Florence.  Stay in Florence.  Tuscany is meant to be savored, and I truly believe it deserves its own trip.  There are several tour operators that offer day trips from Florence to San Gimignano, Siena, Pisa, Lucca, and more – but those experiences are too rushed.  You want to explore the Italian hill towns at their best, not their worst.  The best day trip from Florence that I can truly recommend is Fiesole, which is a 20 minute bus ride from the city center.  If you really want to get out of the city center, book a dinner reservation at La Reggia degli Etruschi.

EAT & DRINK:  La Reggia degli Etruschi

Favorite Florence Restaurants

For years, I’ve struggled with putting together a list of my favorite restaurants in Florence.  While I favor authentic flavors, it can be difficult to tell people to get out of the city center completely, especially with only three days to do it.  I think you need to meet people where they are at, and often times, that’s going to be on the side of the river with all the tourist sights.  I’ve had more than a few “meh” meals, but I’ve also found some delicious meals as well.  I’ve also found some kind Florentines who are even kinder when we stumble through in Italian and appreciate their language.  (Seriously – try.)

For Bistecca Fiorentina

With only 3 days in Florence, you need to try bistecca Fiorentina.  Trattoria Sostanza is my favorite.  The are two competing restaurants that show up on all the “best of” lists (Buca Mario and Sostanza), but I’ve been coming to Sostanza for over 10 years and they win.  It’s not fancy, it’s not elaborate, it’s not big, and it can be impossible to get into without a reservation… but it’s worth camping out for before they open and begging for a table when they do.  (Just kidding – you don’t have to beg.  They are the nicest and quite friendly.)  If you want ambiance, Buca Mario is a solid option… but Sostanza edges them out for us.  If you’re not a red meat-eater, their petti di pollo al burro (butter chicken) is solid, too.  Many might argue it’s their better dish.

If you need an option to appease those who are not meat eaters, head to Buca dell’Orafo.  There’s more on them below, but they make a delicious bistecca.

EAT & DRINK:  Trattoria Sostanza

EAT & DRINK:  Ristorante Buca dell’Orafo

EAT & DRINK:  Ristorante Buca Mario

For Pasta in Florence

Aimee and I both agree that Trattoria Nella is worth a visit.  (She’s been coming to this restaurant longer than I have been.)  We were lucky enough to get the last table around 9:00pm one evening, and I am so glad we did.  As far as food, we ordered half a liter of wine (so.much.wine.), the misto Toscano (cheese, salami, etc.) as an appetizer, ravioli all noci (walnut ravioli), and penne Nella (penne with a tomato-herb cream sauce).  We really enjoyed our meal.  Service is friendly and leisurely, especially if  you attempt a little Italian.  The ambiance was warm and cozy.  This is a great place to end your day.

EAT & DRINK:  Trattoria Nella

Buca dell’Orafo Florence

We were huddled under umbrellas in the Piazza delle Signornia on our first night in Florence when we were trying to decide what to do about dinner.  We were at the point of calling it a night and heading back to our hotel.  I took us down a side alleyway and my husband stopped to look at the menu for Buca dell’Orafo.  It was busy and he decided to ask for a table.  They gave it to us.  It was the last one – many people after us were turned away.  (Notice a trend?)

I still dream of the primi pasta course – the penne alle carretteria.  It’s a penne pasta with a spicy tomato sauce.  We ordered it “bis” (to split), but we really should have ordered our own. It was so fresh and delicious.  Despite the fact that we thought we weren’t hungry, we opted to split the bistecca fiorentina and roasted potatoes.  It was probably one of the most delicious steaks I’ve ever had.  I was a little nervous because we forgot to tell them that we like our steak the way Italians like it (rare-medium rare), and most places will overcook steak for Americans.  Our fears were completely unfounded.  The steak was perfectly cooked and delicious with olive oil.  When we finally pushed our stomachs up the stairs, it had stopped raining and we headed back to our hotel for a good night’s rest.

EAT & DRINK:  Ristorante Buca dell’Orafo

For Quick, Cheap Eats in Florence

Florence Street Food

You wouldn’t think that the panini shop facing the Duomo would be a good experience, but Panini Toscani is incredible.  What makes this delicious?  Let’s start with the staff.  They kindly welcome you in and explain the different types of meats and cheese, letting you taste a bit of each one.  The different types of bread are also explained.  (The olive bread is my favorite.)  After you choose your meat and cheese, you can add toppings.  (I recommend the sun-dried tomatoes.)  They warm it up (if you choose) and wrap it to go.  There are a few tables inside and a few outside.  The wine is cheap and the sandwiches are delicious.  This will be my first stop on my next trip to Florence.

EAT & DRINK:  Panini Toscani

Located on a few small streets behind the Piazza delle Signoria is I’Girone de Ghiotti.  You’ll notice all the locals standing outside and push your way inside to order. They have a few popular items, but you can also make your own.  The olive pate is incredible (and the staff agreed that it was a very good choice).  Sun-dried tomatoes are succulent.  The salami had a delicious flavor.  Nothing we ate was bad.  There are stools behind the counter and a small sitting area upstairs.  Either way, you’l want to savor every bit of this fresh panini.  Y’all.  Subway sucks after eating all of these delicious sandwiches.

EAT & DRINK:  I’girone de Ghiotti

If you are feeling adventurous, you can head to the original window at Da’ Vinattieri and order the lamperodotto.  If you aren’t that brave, head to the tiny sandwich shop and make your own panini.  I think they have some of the best prosciutto of all the sandwich shops, and you can even add balsamic vinegar to your panini.  Next time I’ll be trying the truffle cream because it smelled absolutely delicious.

EAT & DRINK:  Da’ Vinattieri

‘Ino is a little intimidating, particularly if you arrive during the lunch rush.  It’s tucked behind the Uffizi gallery and offers delicious, fresh sandwiches on the traditional schiacciata bread.  The menu is actually on the wall facing the cash register.  Your basic Italian skills will be much appreciated.  Tom recommends the prosciutto and pecorino.  I recommend anything with the prosciutto.  We actually went to ‘Ino two days in a row because I liked it so much.  It was so busy that we took it to go and enjoyed it back in our room.  (Yet another benefit to staying at the Hotel Gallery Art.)

EAT & DRINK:  ‘Ino Firenze

One of our tour guides recommended I’Raddi as a great option for lunch.  This small restaurant in the Oltrarno has a takeaway counter, but it also has a small sitting area upstairs.  We opted for a table and a menu on a cold and rainy day.  We loved the Pomodoro e pappas (especially on a cold day).  My mom finally found the coccoli e straticella cheese that she had been pining over for 9 years, and I had a delicious spicy salami panini.  Tom tried to the lampredotto.  Service was very friendly, but you’ll want to practice your Italian.  There’s not a lot of English spoken here – but it’s worth it.  The food is delicious and perfect for lunch or apertivo.

EAT & DRINK:  I Raddi di Santo Spirito

Pizza in Florence

If you find yourself in the Oltarno, Gusta Pizza is a solid option for a hot meal in Florence that won’t break the bank.  Favorited by students (undoubtedly for its prices), there’s usually a line and you’ll have to fight for a shared table (or take it to go).  The pizza is served piping hot and always fresh.  Be prepared for a line though.  The Gusta “franchise” seems to be taking over, and we were disappointed that we didn’t have a chance to try Gusta Panino on our last trip.  (It’s right around the corner in Santo Spirito.)  If you are looking for a great late night option and you don’t want to wait in line, I think that Munaciello or O’Scugnizzo are good for cheap pizza, as well as a place to sit.

EAT & DRINK:  Gusta Pizza

EAT & DRINK:  ‘O Munaciello

EAT & DRINK:  Pizzeria O’Scugnizzo

Mercato Centrale

I know I’ve said that I don’t trust any fresh pasta to go places in Italy, but there’s always an exception to the rule.  On the first floor of the Mercato Centrale, there’s a fresh pasta place.  (Not the one on the second floor.  The first floor one.)  You can see them make the pasta on the side of the stall.  And, when you’re done ogling it, you can buy lunch for 5 euro.  This is the best 5 euro meal you will find in Florence.  I recommend anything with the tomato and olive sauce.  Tom recommends the olive oil and parmesan.  Skip the pesto.  We’ve been spoiled by the pesto of Cinque Terre and nothing ever measures up.  There’s a small counter that you eat at.  I could have eaten here for every meal but settled for two.

Bonus:  Go find the bakery that offers Occhi di bue.  It’s the most delicious cookie.  Apricot or Nutella?  Both win in my book.

Pro tip:  You can skip (most of) the crowds of the San Lorenzo market by entering through the back entrance.

EAT & DRINK:  La Primeria by FN Pasta Fresca (1st floor location!)

For a Social Meal

My husband really loves tours when we travel and I really love experiences.  Cooking classes are a great way to do both and bring a souvenir of sorts home.  I’ve taken both a pizza and gelato class and a fresh pasta class. Neither disappoint.  These classes are small and very hands on.  At the end of the class, you descend into the wine cellar to enjoy your creations with your new friends and wine.  It’s a great way to meet other people who are visiting Florence and learn new skills at the same time.

BOOK THIS:  Pizza and gelato cooking class in Florence

BOOK THIS:  Fresh pasta cooking class in Florence

Gelato in Florence

I can’t say that I’ve never met a gelato I didn’t love.  There is some seriously bad gelato out there.  Here are a few pro tips as you start your gelato quest though.  One, if it’s piled high and brightly colored, keep walking.  Gelato should be fresh and fresh gelato doesn’t pile high.  Two, expensive gelato is not a marker of good gelato.  Be wary of the places charging six euro for a single cone.  You’re getting ripped off if you pay that much. There’s a gelato place near Orsanmichele that takes the prices off the sign at night and we watched someone pay 14 euro for a cone to go.  FOURTEEN EURO.  No gelato is worth 14 euro.  (Their price during the day is 6 euro.  That’s still too high for a piccolo.

The most expensive gelato that I will tolerate is Edoardo, and he’s right in front of the Duomo.

Gelato is a personal adventure, and I take the journey very seriously.  I think you should try multiple places (and flavors) and see what works for you.  (There’s one place that is in all the travel guides that I think is terrible.)  Tom’s favorite flavors are bacio (hazelnut chocolate) and nocciola (hazelnut).  I love both of those, but I also love the fruit flavors.  I’ve yet to meet a fruity gelato I didn’t love.  I think Tom feels cheated every time I order fruit flavors.  That being said, here are a few of my favorite gelaterias in Florence.

Vivoli

Vivoli is a cult classic.  It’s near Santa Croce, and I’ve been coming here since 2004.  The service is gruff.  You pay before you order.  If you take too long to decide on your flavor combination, they move on.  Like many of my favorite Florentine memories, I come to Vivoli for my bacio e nocciola.  There’s a bench across the street where I will sit and watch the world go by.  I used to say that the beautiful of Florence is that nothing changes, but then the Turkish restaurant below my apartment closed and I was thrown off.  Vivoli is a reminder that the best parts of Florence don’t change.

EAT & DRINK:  Vivoli

Gelateria dei Neri

Near the end of all the cheap delicious eats on Via dei Neri is Gelateria dei Neri.  Like almost every other establishment on Via dei Neri, there is almost always a line at the gelateria.  Like Vivoli, I come here for my cult classic of bacio.  I think they have the best bacio in Florence.  I’m very happy to get un piccolo cono con bacio, solemente, per favore and make my way back to the Piazza delle Signoria or to Piazza Santa Croce.

EAT & DRINK:  Gelateria dei Neri

Gelateria Santa Trinita

Right across the Santa Trinita bridge (with the best views of the Ponte Vecchio) is the delicious Gelateria Santa Trinita.  This gelateria is the best value in Florence.  It’s also my personal favorite.  I particularly like the fruit flavors here.  Where it’s fragola (strawberry) e limon (lemon), mandarino (tangerine) e lampone (rasperry), or arancia (orange) and fruiti di bosco (mixed berries), I will mix and match fruits until my heart is content.  The bonus of Santa Trinita is that you can stand along the bridge and admire the Ponte Vecchio at any time of day, though sunset and evenings are my favorites.  (We also counted down the New Year on this bridge – magical.)

EAT & DRINK:  Gelateria Santa Trinita

La Carraia

A block away from Gelateria Santa Trinita and across the Ponte al Carraia is La Carraia, and it’s Tom’s favorite gelato.  La Carraia tends to have more exotic flavors, but they make a really delicious bacio.  I wanted to try their green apple, but sometimes you have to make the husband happy.  (Believe it or not, we share our gelato… because we eat so much of it in Florence.  I stopped counting but Tom gave me a count one day, and I was appalled.  Good thing we walk a lot.)  The best thing about La Carraia is that they are open until midnight, so whether we’re staying at the Hotel Gallery Art or the St. Regis, we can get a gelato fix.  (It’s equidistant from both.)

EAT & DRINK:  La Carraia Gelateria

Sbrino

If you find yourself deep in the Oltrarno, it’s worth finding Sbrino.  Sbrino does not open early because all the gelato is made fresh daily.  It stays open late and you can find it because of the lights outside (or the line).  It has the most imaginative flavors I’ve ever seen in Florence.  On our last trip, we tried a white chocolate hazelnut bit of goodness.  It was so good that Tom wanted to go back after dinner and get it again.  I also think that Sbrino has the friendliest staff of any of the gelaterias.

EAT & DRINK:  Sbrino Gelatifico Contadino

Where to Stay in Florence

St. Regis Florence

After realizing that my Florence apartment will never again be my home, I have made the deliberate choice that the St. Regis Florence could be my home away from home.  Every single room I have stayed in is beautiful.  No two rooms at the St. Regis Florence are the same.  The staff is, without question, the best in the business.  We always feel so welcome by everyone – from the doorman to the front office manager.  I love that the location is slightly removed from the crowds. I love being able to listen to the Arno rush by my room. On New Year’s Eve, we redeemed points and we had a room with a Duomo view.  I didn’t hate it either.  😉

Whenever I was sad or lonely during my study abroad semester, I would sit on the banks of the Arno. Sometimes I would write in my journal.  It would remind me that life is beautiful and there is so much yet to be explored.  I’ve always chosen the river view rooms at the St. Regis for that constant reminder.  There are plenty of posts that recap the rooms of the St. Regis, but it’s always the first place I check when I start planning a trip to Italy.

STAY:  St. Regis Florence

Gallery Hotel Art

This hotel might be the best kept secret in Florence hotels.  We stumbled upon it when the St. Regis was completely sold out for April and Tom wanted to stay somewhere more central because of my hip issues.  Despite its prime location, the room rates are incredibly reasonable.  The Gallery Hotel Art is set right off the Ponte Vecchio on a quiet square.  Our room (110) did not have any sort of a view, but it was quiet.  (I did miss the natural light in the afternoon though.)  You can read my entire review of the Gallery Hotel Art.  (If you are looking for more upscale options, check out my full review of the Hotel Lungarno and others owned by the same group!)

This hotel (and a few others) are owned by Salvatore Ferragamo and the design elements are on point.  My favorite part is the striped curtains (and the blackout shutters), but the large bathroom with dual sinks and the soaking tub are great, too.  The bath amenities smell incredible, and I certainly hoarded them to bring home and relieve my best vacation life.  It’s worth nothing that you receive spa privileges at the Continentale, and they literally called someone in when I asked for a massage and they didn’t have anyone available.  How’s that for five-star service?

While I’m loathe to admit it (because I love the St. Regis so much), this hotel is beautiful and convenient for sightseeing.  You’re less than a 5 minute walk from the Piazza della Signoria and the Piazza della Repubblica.  You can be in the Oltrarno in less than 10 minutes.  It was particularly nice, given my hip pain issues.  If you’re someone who likes being in the middle of everything, the Gallery Hotel Art is definitely worth checking out.

STAY:  Gallery Hotel Art

Arte Boutique Hotel

We stayed at the Arte Boutique Hotel in Florence in June 2021 when the St. Regis wasn’t open yet.  I chose this hotel because of its location.  The unique design of the rooms also appealed to me.  The art is absolutely amazing, and it works really well with the bright accents in the room.  The hotel is two blocks from the Duomo, two blocks from the Accademia, and two blocks from the apartment I lived in when I studied abroad.  It’s a great value, particularly given its premier location.

We booked a king deluxe room that included a sofa that could be converted to a bed.  (We were assigned room 8.)  While the room was on the smaller side for Florence, it was perfect for what we needed between the two of us.  (It would be tough to have 2 adults and an older child in this room.)  I found the linens to be nice and the bed to be pretty comfortable.  We had a large wardrobe with plenty of hanging and storage space.  The room offers a mini-fridge, tea service and a safe.  I didn’t have any trouble doing zoom calls with the wifi and the desk was nice for working.  Our room had a slight view of Giotto’s bell tower.  

The bathroom had a walk-in shower, a single sink and a heated towel rack.  Our shower offered a rain showerhead, as well as a hand shower.  (The water pressure with the hand shower was very good.)  It was separated from the room by a pocket door, which was really nice for maximizing space.        

The staff here is absolutely lovely.  They were so helpful and always eager to assist with anything we needed.  Our room rate did not include breakfast, but the breakfast room and small hotel bar have a nice interior courtyard with a view. Everything was very clean and very well maintained.  There is an elevator in the building and the rooms have AC.  

Valet parking was 25 euros per night.  They picked up the car from us after we checked in and delivered it quickly when we were ready to check out.

STAY HERE:  Arte Boutique Hotel          

Travel Tips for Getting To and Around Florence  

By Plane or By Train

I have flown directly into FLR at 10:00pm and grabbed a cab to the city centre.  Easy enough.  You can also take the tram from the airport to the train station.  It’s very easy and the ride is quite smooth.  It takes about 20 minutes.

In 2010, I flew into Pisa and boarded the Terrevision bus to Florence Santa Maria Novella (the main train station).  We arrived around midnight, so we snagged a cab to our hotel.  There’s a taxi line outside the main entrance to SMN.  Just exit the platforms and keep walking straight ahead and out the main doors.  In 2015, 2016 and 2017, we arrived via train from Rome (easy trip), from Pisa (even easier trip), and from Siena (not-as-easy trip) and grabbed a cab to the St. Regis.

Arrival is basically the only time when I use cabs because cobblestones shred plastic wheels.  When I studied abroad, I walked to/from the train station to my apartment with my weekender bag.  It doesn’t take more than 10-15 minutes to get most places. Despite throngs of tourists, it’s manageable.  It’s even more manageable now that the city center is mostly a pedestrian zone.

By Car

In 2018 and 2019, we drove into Florence.  In spring 2018, we dropped off the car at the Hertz office right down the street from our hotel.  When we came for New Year’s Eve, we used the valet service at the St. Regis.  And, when we returned in 2019, we used the valet service at the Gallery Hotel Art.  In all cases it, was very easy.  They registered our car so we were not charged for being in the ZTL zones.  Getting out of Florence from the Gallery Hotel Art was more difficult, but that’s because Tom thought he knew more than the map.  We took a very scenic route through the city center.  😉

By Foot

The best way to experience Florence is to walk. I love ducking down small streets to see where they lead, climbing through winding streets that lead to the Piazzale Michelangelo, and watching the world go by in large piazzas.  Florence does all of that extremely well. The city is a complex maze of one way streets. You’ll miss a lot of Florence’s charm if you don’t explore it thoroughly on foot. Wander. Explore. Get lost. You’ll never be far from home because Florence just isn’t that big.

The Best Florence Souvenir

One of my favorite things we’ve done in Florence is book a portrait session with Cristiano from Facibeni Fotographia.  We were not disappointed with the results.  He did a fantastic job capturing us at all my favorite places in my beautiful city.  These portrait sessions (we booked L’amour de Paris for our honeymoon and Ksenia in Venice for our 4th anniversary) are some of my favorite souvenirs.  It’s a fun way to get advice from a local on places to go, things to see, and what their favorite experiences are, too.  Cristiano is actually who convinced us to go to Budapest when we weren’t entirely sure about going (and I’m so glad he did)!

Listen

Download DIY tours of the most popular sites in Florence.  Rick Steves offers free audio walking tours of the Accademia, the Bargello Museum, the San Marco Museum, the Uffizi Gallery, and a city walking tour.  If you want to teach yourself a little Italian, I’ve been using the DK Eyewitness Phrase Book and CD since 2004.  I’m a believer.

Learn

Tom and I love a good travel guide for trip planning purposes.  I prefer pocket-sized books that fit easily into my day bag, my carry-on bag, or even Tom’s pocket.  Thus, Florence and Tuscany Day-by-Day and Top 10 Florence & Tuscany are my favorite guides.  My most recent purchase is the DK Florence and Tuscany Travel Guide.  Tom prefers the Rick Steves guide to Florence because of the history and walking tour maps.

Read More

There is no shortage of Florence content on this blog.  Feel free to click around to get more ideas on how to plan the perfect trip to Florence.

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