Montefalco Travel Guide
In December 2018, we ended up in Umbria on a whim. We stayed at a remote Relais & Chateaux resort that was very focused on local food and wine experiences. They offered us a glass of wine while they prepared our room. The bartender explained more about Montefalco Sagrantino and recommended that we visit Montefalco during our trip. We ended up going there for dinner and fell in love with the walled town.
Even after that first trip, we couldn’t believe we had not come across it any of the many travel books I read for inspiration. On subsequent trips to Italy, we went back to Montefalco again and again. After we stayed in Montefalco for four nights, and I decided that it was time to write this mini Montefalco travel guide. If you’re looking to get off the beaten track in Italy, Montefalco is a great destination in Umbria.
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Getting to Montefalco
Montefalco is for the traveler who is willing to drive in Italy. It is not easily connected by train or bus and would required a couple of changes. Having a car will give you the flexibility to visit the wineries that surround Montefalco, too. Montefalco is about 2 hours from Rome and between 2-3 hours from Florence, depending on traffic and the route we choose.
Most of our trips to Montefalco have followed our trips to Tuscany. (We’ve also made day trips from Cortona to Montefalco to pick up wine.) Most recently, we stayed in Montalcino before heading to Montefalco. We wanted the side-by-side comparison of two full-bodied wines, and it was a fun strategy. The drive from Montalcino to Montefalco was also about 2 hours.
When to Visit Montefalco
We’ve been Montefalco in every single season. It always feels local, it always feels lived in, and my mom will tell you that it’s where she wants to move to in Italy. The Christmas season felt extra special with Christmas lights adorning the medieval walls. Spring is beautiful because the hills are green and the vineyards are starting to bloom. Summer is lovely because of the long days and cool evenings where you can capitalize on dining al fresco. And, fall is down right magical because the Sagrantino grape leaves turn red and offer a beautiful, sharp contrast to the verdant green hills around it.
In short, there’s not a bad time to visit Montefalco. If you are hoping to visit wineries, I would caution you to plan around the harvest dates, as many producers are small and it may be difficult to schedule wine tastings while you are there. However, it is incredible to see the vineyards fully in bloom.
Where to Stay in Montefalco
We’ve stayed at several hotels in Umbria, and everything has their own vibe. You have your traditional Italian wine resorts like Roccafiore. If you’re looking for luxury, you have the beautiful resort of Borgo dei Conti. You have popular towns like Assisi that are more easily accessible to tourists (and their prices reflect that). And, you have small hotels in small villages that offer a very local experience. We’ve spent a few nights in different small towns in Umbria, and I think staying in Montefalco is still one of my favorite experiences.
Palazzo Bontadosi in Montefalco
Palazzo Bontadosi is the one of the first hotels I noticed in Montefalco on our first trip. It’s located in the Piazza del Comune, which is the main square in Montefalco. It looked so warm and cozy. The modern restaurant and bar provided a stark contrast to the traditional architecture of the building. It was surprising to see such a boutique hotel in the middle of Montefalco.
We spent 4 nights at Palazzo Bontadosi, and it was just as lovely as I hoped it would be. We were assigned Room 24, a superior room, which overlooked Piazza del Comune. Our two sets of windows that let in plenty of natural light during the day. During the day and early evening, we would open our windows to listen to the music in the square. It was quite magical.
Sometimes, in smaller European hotels, it can be hard to find a good mattress. Palazzo Bontadosi has nice mattresses. To be sure, it was firm but it felt like a tempur-pedic vs. just being thin and uncomfortable. The other thing that was amazing at Palazzo Bontdosi: THE SHOWER. The large walk-in shower had incredible water pressure. I wanted to take it home with me.
Palazzo Bontadosi Amenities
Most room rates at Palazzo Bontadosi include breakfast. Due to the amazing meals we had, we didn’t end up taking advantage of it. It smelled delicious though. There is also a lovely bar where you can enjoy a drink at lunch or for apertivo in the evening. On the first floor, there is a solarium with lounge chairs overlooking the countryside. I loved spending time out there in the afternoon.
The other reason I booked Palazzo Bontadosi is because it offered a spa. It did cost 40€/person for an hour, which felt a bit high but it’s worth a visit because it’s just cool. Housed in a the former cistern, it offers a small pool and a sauna. It’s a lot like the spa at Monastero di Cortona.
A Few of Our Favorite Montefalco Restaurants
Montefalco is such an interesting vibe. It’s a traditional hill town that continues to exist in its original state. However, the hotels and restaurants are modern and beautifully designed. Many menus are a nod to traditional ingredients with extensive local wine lists. Though I think you can find tourist traps in Montefalco, with a little research, you can have some truly outstanding meals. Umbria is considered the green heart of Italy, so I strongly recommend that you eat and drink locally. While I don’t believe any Montefalco travel guide can be all-encompassing, I will update this post as we discover additional restaurants.
Ristorante Re Tartu
Re Tartu translates to the king of truffles. (We also met the man who considers himself the king of truffles. Umbria is known for truffles; you can see more about this on Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy. And, if you ask Tom, he will tell you that Re Tartu is just as good as Le George at the the Four Seasons, one of our favorite splurges in Paris.
Re Tartu is fine dining in Montefalco. It’s the place you go for a romantic dinner. They serve amuse bouche between tours. Everything is beautifully plated. Timing between courses is impeccable. There is a sommelier on staff to recommend wines. The wine list is extensive. We had a table in the upstairs dining room, and at the end of the night, we were amazed at how much time we had taken to enjoy our dinner. One of the small luxuries of travel is the ability to truly enjoy your meal.
What We Ordered:
Wine: Le Cimate Trebbiano Spoletino (white)
Antipasti: Prosciutto and coltello, bruschetta with truffle
Wine: Le Cimate Montefalco Sagrantino 2016 (red)
Primi Piatti: Tagliatelle with a white meat sauce and truffle and Strangozzi with truffle
Secondi: Filet with shaved truffle
Enoteca L’Alchimista
L’Alchimista is another one of my favorite restaurants in Montefalco. I have fond memories of outdoor dining in the summer. The staff is kind. Because it functions as both a wine bar and a restaurant, the menu truly does offer something for everyone. The wine list is outstanding. Similar to Re Tartu, you can find many of the smaller producers from Montefalco on their wine list.
We’ve eaten here a few times, and it’s always a tasty experience. I feel like their menu is generally pretty creative with a nod to traditional flavors. (For example, my mom ordered the gnocchi al Sagrantino, which is definitely not something you would find outside Montefalco.) What I really love is that the chef follows the season, so the menu does evolve with what’s readily available. If you can, book a table on a summer evening. It’s an experience you won’t soon forget and it will be why you return to Montefalco.
We enjoyed the Bocale Trebbiano Spoletino 2023 and the Bocale Montefalco Sagrantino 2018 with our most recent dinner at L’Alchimista. (I think Valentino’s 2023 Trebbiano is his best vintage yet!)
For dessert, I ordered traditional Umbrian cookies that were served with the 2015 Pennacchi Terre di Capiani Sagratino di Montefalco Passito. 10/10 would recommend.
Olevm
Olvem is the first restaurant we visited in Montefalco. Everything about it feels traditional, and the staff immediately makes you feel like family. When we arrived on a cold night in late December, they welcomed us with open arms. We stumbled through our lackluster Italian together – and ended up having such a memorable meal.
I really love the bread that is used for torta al testo (a traditional Umbrian sandwich), and I’m always excited when it’s served with a misti platter of local meats and cheeses. We had a lovely handmade pasta with winter black truffle for our primi and a tagliata with shaved truffles for our secondi. The salad with red raddichio and almonds was incredible. Olevm is Umbrian food at its best with a focus on tradition and the raw ingredients.
Saltatempo Montefalco
If you are looking for a more casual meal in Montefalco, head to Saltatempo. We’ve had lunch here, and it’s always delicious. The staff is incredibly kind, the food is made fresh, and they have a variety of wines from Montefalco that you can try. (If you don’t finish your bottle, they will let you take it home, too!)
I highly recommend trying the torta al testo here. The bread is made in a cast iron griddle and served warm. It might be my favorite bread in all of Italy. (My mouth is watering just writing about it!) The also make a melted cheese with olive oil and truffle that is absolutely delicious on their fresh bread.
InBolla Enoteca
If your luck is a little better than ours and you travel to Montefalco in the warmer months, I recommend heading to the rooftop bar at InBolla Enoteca. This wine bar is housed on multi-levels and you can enjoy a lovely apertivo here. The decor is sleek and modern, similar to Re Tartu.
We ordered a French and Italian cheese plate, as well as a torta al testo. There was so much food we didn’t end up needing dinner that night. We asked the staff to make recommendations on wine so we could try some new producers. She recommended Arnaldo-Caparai, one of the original wineries of Montefalco. We opted for the 2020 Rosso di Montefalco. In retrospect, we should have tried some of the more interesting Umbrian wines she she recommended, but we really wanted to try an original Montefalco producer.
Bottega del Bove
On our last day in Montefalco, it was raining and we wanted to find some food that we could easily pack for the plane. We decided to grab lunch at the last minute at Bottega del Bove. It did not disappoint. We ordered a couple of different meats from Norcia, a small town in Umbria known for its butchers. It really is such a shame that the US has such a strong prohibition against the import of Italian meats. These were incredible. Everything was sliced fresh.
We ended up ordering a few things to carry on the plane. I enjoyed the meats far more than I would have enjoyed our airline meal. This shop does close in the middle of the day, so you’ll have to plan accordingly. It’s definitely worth it though. There is more seating upstairs, so don’t opt out if it feels too small or too busy.
Wines to Try in Montefalco, Italy
The Italian classification of wines is helpful when you’re starting to learn more about Italian wines. Because we really didn’t start drinking wine until we started traveling more, I don’t really know wines by the grape. I know them by region and classifications. Whenever we go somewhere near in Italy, we make a point to try DOCG and DOC wines, which are tightly controlled and represent the region. I also love to try IGT wines because the usually represent the creativity of the winemaker.
DOCG Wines in Montefalco
- Sagrantino di Montefalco (DOCG, red full-bodied wine)
- Sagrantino di Montefalco Passito (DOCG, red dessert wine)
- Montefalco Rosso (DOC, red medium-bodied wine)
- Trebbiano Spoletino (DOC, white wine)
Montefalco Wineries to Visit
There are wineries throughout the entire region of Umbria. We like to try and visit the wineries close to where we are staying and Montefalco is no exception. We try to use enotecas and restaurant wines-by-the-glass to find new wineries to visit. In all of our trips to Umbria, however, there are two wineries that stand out and we always try to visit for a tasting. The views of the surrounding countryside from both of these wineries is incredible, so make sure to take a moment to take it all in!
Be aware: you do have to schedule tastings in advance. I personally love this part of Italian wine culture though. You are able to take your time, ask questions, and truly enjoy the experience. Most wine tastings in Italy are served with food, so you can learn a little bit more about food and wine pairings.
Bocale Wines by Valentino Valentini
Valentino was the first winemaker we met after 2020. He was so excited, so engaging, and his wines were delightful. He exclusively makes DOCG and DOC wines that are representative of the Montefalco area. (His wines are featured on Stanley Tucci’s Searching for Italy episode on Umbria!)
If you don’t schedule a wine tasting in Montefalco with Valentino, I’ll be sad for you. He is the former mayor of Montefalco and has so much knowledge of the history of the area, in addition to the history of wine in the area. He taught us more about the Italian classification of wine than anyone we’ve ever met. We learn more every time we go. And, we’ve been back so many times that we consider him a friend and always look forward to catching up.
We’ve visited the Bocale winery several times over the last few years. We love, love, love the 2023 Trebbiano Spoletino. It’s the perfect summer white wine – crisp and refreshing. We keep bottles of the Trebbiano, the Montefalco Rosso, and the Sagrantino from Bocale on hand as cellar defenders or daily drinkers. Additionally, Tom loves the Ennio Sagrantino di Montefalco, which is a full-bodied red wine. We purchased a couple of bottles of this on our 10th anniversary with the intention of saving it for future celebrations.
Valentino does export to the United States, but we prefer to buy directly when we are in Montefalco. Be aware that his wines do sell out, so you should definitely buy what you want when you are there. (We learned this the hard way!)
Le Cimate Wines by Paolo Bartoloni
Just as Borgo dei Conti introduced us to the town of Montefalco, they also introduced us to another great wine producers in Montefalco. Le Cimate is another one of our favorite wineries in Montefalco. In 2024, Paolo Bartoloni was elected president of the Consorzio Tutela di Montefalco wines, which oversees that production and upholding the standards of the area wines.
We have taken a few tours of Cantina Cimate with Paolo. While ha also produces DOCG and DOC wines, he is also quite a bit more creative and produces several IGT wines. They recently opened a new tasting room, and while you have to email to schedule a tasting, it’s definitely worth taking the time to do.
We love Cimate’s 2020 Trebbiano Spoletino, as well as the Trebbiano Spoletino Superiore wines. Both are great white wines, but the Superiore has quite a bit more structure. Both are lovely, but they are different. Similar to Bocale, we keep the Montefalco Rosso and Sagrantino on hand as daily drinkers.
Paolo created the original Super Umbrian (IGT) called Macchieto, which is a lovely red blend. I especially love the 2015 and 2016 vintages, though I only have one bottle of each left in my cellar. On our most recent visit, we picked up a few bottles of his rosato, Saudade, which is also an IGT. I also love his Muller Thurgau white passito, which is a delightful dessert wine.
Cimate does not export to the United States, so we always pick it up to bring home when we visit Montefalco. This is why we have a Vin Valise (or two…)!
Don’t Miss: Museo di San Francesco
On our last trip to Montefalco, Valentino (from Bocale) insisted on meeting us at the San Francesco museum. The frescos in this church are absolutely beautiful and were recently restored. They also have a nice collection of pre-Renaissance art, as well as modern art exhibitions in the museum. While not nearly as large as some other museums in other Italian cities, the frescos were just as beautiful (if not more so) than some of their more famous counterparts. Additionally, these frescos were done by Benozzo Gozzoli and pre-date the Renaissance. It’s completely unexpected and completely fantastic.
Further, the museum recently opened a small museum dedicated to the production of Sagrantino wine. They have a lot of artifacts including ancient grape presses and other winery tools. It’s a lovely nod to the area and the perfect way to round our a trip to Montefalco.
