One Week Istanbul Itinerary

There are two trips that I have held so sacred that I didn’t know if I would ever be able to take them: Vienna and Istanbul.  These are two trips that my stepdad and I agreed that we would take together.  A few years before he passed away, my dad called me at work and said that he was ready to plan our trip to Istanbul.  That weekend, I headed to my parents’ house, armed with books and ready to plan our Istanbul itinerary.  My dad loaded us in the car and drove us to Cafe Istanbul and said that we were there.  He thought this was the funniest thing in the world.  I was so mad that I cried and refused to have lunch.  Looking back, I can see why he was so amused, but I’m still so sad that we never got to take the trip together.      

In April 2016, six months after my dad passed away, Tom and I went to Vienna and I struggled immensely.  Ultimately, I didn’t think that my dad would have enjoyed it as much as he romanticized its place in history.  My second and third trips to Vienna for the Christmas markets were better because I embraced the place for what it was for me.  I didn’t know if I would be able to go to Istanbul though.  When we decided to take that trip, I kept it entirely to myself because I knew I would need a lot of time to process it.  I also didn’t know if I would be able to separate my emotion from my experience.

I can tell you now though. Go to Istanbul.  From the moment we arrived, I was struck by the hospitality of the Turkish people. The food was so savory and there is so much to experience.  Every experience on this trip was an incredible adventure.  Visiting Istanbul is one of my favorite trips we’ve taken in recent years.  (Who am I kidding?  Every trip is one of my favorites.)  And, for what it is worth, I felt like my dad was with me every step of the way.  I was overcome with emotion when I stepped into the Hagia Sophia and remembering whispering to him that we made it.

All that said, I will say to give yourself enough time to enjoy the adventure.  Istanbul is so much more than a cruise port, day trip, or a long layover. 

Treat it as such and savor it.   

Despite generally being OneWorld loyalists, we flew Star Alliance from DFW-EWR-FRA-IST departing mid-day Saturday and arriving early evening on Sunday.  We flew Polaris by United on the EWR-FRA leg on the Dreamliner.  (Definitely influenced by Jenn Lake to upgrade this leg – she’s an amazing United loyalist.)  She isn’t wrong; the service was incredible.  United has really improved their transatlantic business hard product, along with their soft product. 

American truly pales in comparison at this point.  (I don’t know what I’m going to do about this now.)  Our layover in Frankfurt was a couple of hours, which worked out well to grab a fresh pretzel.  It took us about an hour to walk between the terminals and clear security again.  (We were faster on the flight back and even quicker on subsequent trips.  Give yourself enough time though.  Frankfurt is huge and some flights arrive at remote stands requiring a bus to the terminal.)

We flew Turkish Airlines for our last leg.  Given all the changes to meal service over the last few years, Turkish provided a substantive meal for a (relatively) short flight.  (I loved the marble cake even if it did spike my blood sugar like crazy.)

We used the same Istanbul airport car service for our flight back to the US.  Our flight left IST at 7:10am on Sunday morning.  We had a 3:45am pickup time from the Four Seasons Bosphorus.  There was no traffic and the trip took about 40 minutes.       

I purchased the 10 Best Istanbul and the Rick Steves Istanbul travel guide for my preliminary research.  I felt like the 10 Best book was incredibly helpful and informative for sightseeing.  Tom really liked using the Rick Steves book for restaurant ideas and learning more.  

Once I did my preliminary reading, I made a list of everything both Tom and I wanted to see or want to do.  (I use excel for this.)  I make a list of the days and times when something is not available.  From there, I researched Istanbul guided tours and attraction tickets that I may to want to book in advance and add the links to the spreadsheet.  We use Viator to book tours because of their extensive inventory and booking flexibility.  If there are must visit restaurants, I add those on a separate tab, but I didn’t do a lot of Istanbul restaurant research in advance this trip.  

Not surprisingly, I ended up with a very exhaustive list of things to do in Istanbul.  It was clear that one week in Istanbul would not be enough.  Typically when we travel, we try and schedule something in the morning, rest during the midday, and do something else in the early evening before dinner.  Because we spent a week in Istanbul, we decided to stay in two different hotels in two different neighborhoods.  I used those locations to map out what made the most sense given our hotel location.  This ended up being a really good idea because traffic in Istanbul is intense.  The excel sheet made it really easy to fit together tours and attractions to create the perfect itinerary for Istanbul.  

Our trip ended up being 7 nights (including the overnight flight), so I ended up putting together a six day Istanbul itinerary, which excluded the day we arrived and the day we departed.  We just opted for drinks at Octo and an easy dinner on our first night in Istanbul.

EVENING: I love doing hands-on things we travel, which usually manifests itself into cooking classes. However, as soon as I saw this Turkish marbling workshop, I knew we would be doing it.  This art studio is located on a small backstreet of the artsy neighborhood of Karakoy.  (It’s very close to Galata Tower and Istiklal Street.  We had intended to explore that area further after the class, but it was raining.) 

Full disclosure:  Neither Tom nor I are very artistic, but this was very fun to do together.  It was also very relaxing and almost meditative.  Tom is way better at Ebru than I am. 

The staff is so very welcoming.  While they were finishing up the class before us, we headed to their rooftop terrace for amazing views of both the Bosphorus strait and the Golden Horn.  The class included a short instructional video, a demonstration, and hands-on assistance in creating your own works of art.  (I’ll be gifting our pieces to our mother as Mother’s Day gifts.)   

MORNING:  Our third day wrapped up our stay in Karakoy, so we decided to take a tour of Topkapi Palace for the morning.  I think this is one of those places where you really should use a guide. Yes, you can wander through the grounds of the palace on your own – and possibly even have a coffee overlooking both sides of Istanbul, but you would know anything about the significance of the design of the palace.  The Topkapi Palace is made up of four connected courtyards, each one leading you further into the Palace.  This was done by design.  Oziel, our tour guide, helped us better picture how the palace was used.  There are a number of side exhibits to visit after the tour.  One such exhibit I found interesting was the room of relics, which further reiterated some of the things I had learned on the Hagia Sophia tour with Muhammet. I also enjoyed seeing the beautiful tile work throughout the palace.  The colors are just breathtaking.

MID-DAY:  Originally, we were just looking for a place to pick up a cab, but I insisted on walking through the Arasta Bazaar.  Looking back, I found this to be less intimidating than the Grand Bazaar, though many of the merchants here also have shops in the Grand Bazaar and were happy to direct us over there if we couldn’t find something we liked in these smaller shops.  Though we were traveling in a slower season, it wasn’t too busy around mid-day.  This gave me an idea of the various products that we could purchase and bring back as souvenirs.  I found the Turkish bath towels and robes, linens, and carpets to all be especially beautiful.  There are plenty of tasty treats, but we purchased those at the Spice Bazaar.

EVENING:  We checked into our second hotel, the Four Seasons Bosphorus.  When our room wasn’t ready, they sent us out to their terrace restaurant for a complimentary drink.  It was there that I discovered the delightful Golden Fleece.  After settling into the room, we took advantage of the gorgeous spa and had dinner at one of the Igloos overlooking the Bosphorus.  (This would end up being a mainstay of the second half of our trip to Istanbul.)          

MORNING: We had hoped to visit the Chora Church, but it was closed for restoration.  Since we were already in the cab, we decided to head over to the Süleymaniye Mosque.  The Suleymaniye complex is one of the most beautiful (and underrated) sites in Istanbul.  While you are there, you will probably be approached by one of the mosque volunteers who is happy to share more about the mosque, Islam, and answer any questions you may have.  Talk to them!  If you’re really interested in learning more, visit the adjacent cultural center for a longer conversation.  For us, it was helpful to hear more about what makes a mosque a mosque and the core tenants of Islam.  It’s an uphill climb from the old city, so it offers amazing views of the city.

Remember:  You’ll want to plan your visit around prayer times.    

MID-DAY: Stroll downhill for a visit to the Grand Bazaar.  You’ll pass through a number of merchant districts and wish you had more eyes to take everything in.  There is certainly something for everyone at the bazaar or along the way.  Bring your negotiating skills and don’t be afraid to counter (and walk away).  Keep an open mind and listen closely as you pass the vendors. The sales pitches are incredibly entertaining and always respectful.  We had a lot of laughs with the vendors.  One jacket salesman told Tom he was cold for him because Tom wasn’t wearing a jacket.       

Before heading back to your hotel, grab a meal at Sehzade Cag Kebap.  This small restaurant has a few tables outside, a few tables inside, and a few more upstairs.  We opted for a table inside where we could watch them slice the meat with incredible precision.  You can order a few kebabs at a time and the staff will allow you to order fresh skewers as you finish. The meat is served with a delicious flatbread.  This restaurant is cheap, delicious, and often filled with locals.  It’s not a secret and the hype is worth it.  You can grab a cab or the tram from the station a couple blocks away.

We had six nights in Istanbul, so our fifth day was reserved for our serious shopping.  What does this mean?  It means that we did our surveying while sightseeing and were ready to learn more and decide if we wanted to buy.  For us, that meant spending more time learning about Turkish rugs. 

Full disclosure:  We didn’t know we wanted a rug until we got to Istanbul. There is something hypnotizing about the beauty of Turkish rugs.  Even if you don’t think you’ll want a rug, go ahead and take the measurements of somewhere that you might want a rug.  Some rugs can be used as wall hangings, so consider those measurements as well. 

Even if you don’t need a rug, we really enjoyed sitting down with a glass of chai (apple tea for me, please) and learning more about these stunning works of art.  Here are a few places where we learned the most and saw the most unique pieces:   

Sisko Osman

Written up in guidebooks and newspapers, Sisko Osman is the place to go to learn about rugs.  It is now run by Nurallah, son of the original owner, and he is a wealth of knowledge.  This is not a slick sales pitch.  This is a visit for learning. Visiting Sisko is an exercise in better understanding the Turkish carpet tradition, how to identify handmade carpets vs. machine-made carpets, and seeing traditional designs from different regions of Turkey. We saw the most beautiful silk-on-silk rugs, which we did not see anywhere else on our trip to Istanbul.  Those are definitely made to be wall hangings or tablecloths. 

Nurallah explained how they source their carpets from the countryside, showed us traditional designs specific to certain areas, and what is used to make the natural dyes.  We were able to see several rugs that were over 100 years old.  In many cases, they seemed more vibrant than their newer counterparts. It was also a good reminder that quality can stand the test of time, and in many cases, outperform mass production. These rugs are not inexpensive, but they are beautiful and certainly not mass-produced.

Sisko’s shop can be a little hard to find because its location is both inside and outside the Grand Bazaar.  We found vendors were very happy to help us find it though. 

Ottomania 

We met Suat from Ottomania while walking around the Sultanahmet.  This interaction started as a typical Istanbul exchange.  My husband made a joke about how he had already purchased a rug and ceramics but asked Suat where were we could find a cab. Suat indulged the conversation and (unsurprisingly), we ended up at Ottomania with Nuri, Saut’s uncle, who insisted on sharing tea and showing us his rugs. We saw some gorgeous rugs over the course of a few visits to his shop.

The bottom floor of this Sultanahmet shop is a museum and, similar to Nurallah above, Nuri and his team are happy to show and teach you more about the rugs. They have a number of machine-made and handmade rugs available – in every imaginable size and color. What I loved about this visit is that they were willing to show us a number of rugs at various price points.  Not everyone can afford a huge handmade carpet.  They didn’t try to insist that machine made was better (or worse) than handmade.  They just showed us beautiful rugs and tried to get a better sense of our style preferences.  They showed us things that were one-of-a-kind and showed us things that weren’t.  The exchange felt very honest, and their hospitality was absolutely incredible. 

We came very close to buying a rug here, and I’m not entirely sure that we won’t contact him to buy it in the not-so-distant future.  My favorite was a bumble silk, machine made rug that would match the color scheme of our house beautifully.  It is completely different from the silk-on-silk rugs we saw at Sisko, but it fit our aesthetic more. 

We started our last day in Istanbul with a late morning and a leisurely breakfast.  Since we booked with a Preferred Partner, our reservation included breakfast, a room upgrade, and a $100 hotel credit.  On Saturdays, the Four Seasons offers the choice between breakfast or brunch.  We opted for breakfast and it was delicious.

With our shopping out of the way (and continuing to sleep on a big rug purchase), we wanted to use our last day to catch up on anything we missed seeing.  Unfortunately for us, the Basilica Cistern and the Chora Church were closed the entire time we were in Istanbul.  However, we chose to return to Hagia Sophia for another visit.

We also opted to slow down and really take advantage of the hotel spa on our last full day.

EVENING:  For our final evening in Istanbul, we booked a Bosphorus Cruise and it really felt like the best way to end our time in Istanbul.  Why?  Because our guide was able to point out so many places that we had not been able to see on this trip. We already have more great ideas on where to go when we return to Istanbul.  Unlike some cruises, this Bosphorus cruise did not have constant commentary, so you could enjoy the scenery, in addition to learning more about what we were seeing. Though it was a cloudy day, we were able to get some beautiful photos of Istanbul coming alive throughout blue hour.  There is an open-air roof with seating, so you can take photos unobstructed, too.   

Since there were so few people on the boat, we were able to engage our guide in some interesting conversations about world affairs.

One of the crew members acted as a photographer and took photos of us as a couple. We purchased the album of prints (approximately $50USD) since we rarely get photos together when we travel.

While there are numerous Bosphorus dinner cruise options available, we opted to just book the cruise so we could enjoy our final dinner and drinks from our igloo at the Four Seasons.  (I never got tired of that beautiful view or that delicious drink.)     

As I mentioned, we tried two hotels in Istanbul since we were staying a week.  This worked out really well because the second half of our trip was pretty rainy in the evenings, so it was nice to have a hotel with a nice spa and a restaurant with a view when we didn’t feel like getting out.  It was a bit disappointing though – we didn’t feel like fighting the rain to try and get out and explore the area restaurants, so I feel like we need to go back again.  Both hotels were amazing, and I recommend either one without any reservations.  I’ll likely do a detailed post on each property, but I’ll hit the highlights in this post. 

We used our free night certificates for the JW Marriott hotel.  I had two and Tom had one.  We used my Titanium Suite Night Awards to upgrade to a Premier Bosphorus Suite for two nights and we moved to an Executive Room with a view of Galata Tower for the third night.  The rooms were very comfortable and very quiet.  Our bathroom only offered a walk-in shower, but the water pressure was outstanding. 

As a Marriott Titanium member, breakfast was included in our stay.  The breakfast buffet offers a variety of cold and hot dishes, and the staff will make fresh egg dishes for you.  Tom loved the eggs benedict.  I enjoyed fresh scrambled eggs every morning.  There are plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables, along with delicious pastries.  I enjoyed trying a little bit of everything over the course of our stay.  The view is absolutely breathtaking. 

As I mentioned, we had a cocktail and appetizer at Octo on the night we arrived.  Our drinks were served with fresh hazelnuts (the best anywhere).  The view from the bar is absolutely stunning.  Of course, we had no idea what we were looking at, but this is a great place to take it all in.  The shrimp dish was delicious with delicate spices and tasty shrimp.

The staff makes this hotel shine even more so than the elegant décor (though I loved that, too).  Everyone was incredibly helpful, and all the bellmen were happy to offer suggestions on what to do and see.  They recommended everything from restaurants to cafes with views to mosques not to miss.  We also relied on them for help with taxis.  While there is a lot of construction around the hotel, there are also a lot of delicious restaurants and cute shops.  It feels very lived in and local, though I suppose that dynamic might change when they open the new Peninsula hotel and a new shopping mall.  The JW Marriott is about two blocks from a tram stop, so it is very convenient to public transportation.

The Four Seasons Bosphorus is about 4 miles from the JW Marriott and about 5 miles Sultanahmet, so you’ll need to rely on taxis to get around.  The tram doesn’t extend this far.  It is possible to take it to the last top and walk to the hotel, though we opted not to do that in the rain.  The location is beautiful, but it’s not as convenient for sightseeing.  

The Four Seasons is a large hotel with beautiful grounds, multiple restaurants, and plenty of space.  The layout of the room felt very similar to the Four Seasons Prague (a property I adore), but it did not have the same detail to the decor.  Overall, the design of the rooms at the JW Marriott offered more personality, but the Four Seasons rooms are very, very comfortable.  (I keep thinking about buying the Four Seasons bedding.  It is so beautiful and so soft.)  The bathroom offered both a walk-in shower and a soaking tub, which was nice. 

We booked through the Preferred Partner room, so we were entitled to a room upgrade (we had a partial sea view deluxe room), breakfast, and a $100 hotel credit.  When we arrived, there was a fruit basket in our room; it was replenished daily.  We made good use of the credit by spending most evenings enjoying cocktails and dinner at the igloos on the Bosphorus.  We enjoyed the breakfast at Aqua – the pastries were especially delicious.  I try to start my day with protein, but it was impossible to ignore the delicious baked goods.      

The spa at the Four Seasons is huge at beautiful.  I was able to make reservations for the sauna on a regular basis and it was extremely comfortable.  They have both indoor and outdoor pools, along with an extensive treatment menu.  One of my favorite things to do is to book local spa treatments – which provides a better understanding of how a culture values different parts of wellness.  The Four Seasons is no exception.

Like the JW Marriott, the Four Seasons staff is truly exceptional.  At one point, the staff anticipated one of Tom’s questions and when he expressed his surprise, the man told Tom that it was his job to know the guests that well.    

One thing that will continue to set the Four Seasons apart for me is their Lead with Care initiative.  We stayed at the Four Seasons Dallas in June 2020 and learned more about their partnership with Johns Hopkins to keep everyone safe.  Their safety measures include temperature checks, mask / hand sanitizer amenity kits upon check in, sanitizing luggage, and more.  The Four Seasons Bosphorus offers all of this while also offering on-site PCR tests for $35.       

I would love to try the Four Seasons Sultanahmet on a future stay.  Their restaurant receives rave reviews, and you couldn’t find a more central location.  I noticed that the Four Seasons Istanbul offers a package that lets you stay at both hotels, so that might be something worth looking into.