Visiting Paris at Christmas: A Magical Time of Year

The decision to be in Paris at Christmas wasn’t hard after our amazing Valentine’s Day trip to Paris.  I know I keep saying this, but Paris in the winter is the best kept secret in travel.  Tom was really excited about another trip to Paris, and I was convinced after watching his youtube videos of the Christmas window displays and the Champs Elysées Christmas lights.  We’ve gone to Paris for Christmas in 2019, 2021, 2022, and 2023, so it’s become a bit of a holiday tradition for us!

December in Paris is a lot like Venice is at Christmas.  The city was absolutely magical, especially the area around Place du Vendome.  Could there be a more picturesque view in Paris during Christmas time?  I don’t think so.  I preferred it to the Champs Elysees and the Place du Concorde.  Both of those areas are beautiful in their own right, but they really didn’t compare to Vendome, in my opinion.  Beyond the beauty of the holiday decor, the tourists are mostly gone.  You’ll find locals out and about and going about their holiday business.  And, everyone is in a good mood.

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Things to Do in Paris at Christmas

I’ll cover the Paris Christmas markets in a bit of detail below, but there are so many things, both indoor and outdoor that are enjoyable during the holiday season in Paris.  I found the days to be fairly temperate.  Yes, sometimes the winds got up at times, but a good down coat and boots will keep you warm.  (Take your boots to a local cobbler and get them weatherproofed.  This works wonders for me.)  I didn’t actually need my thermals at all.  It did rain more in December than it has on our previous trips, but we would use those days to take advantage of the myriad of indoor activities available to us.  And, it didn’t rain all day.

See the Paris Opera Ballet Perform The Nutcracker

When I was 12-years-old, I read an article in Dance Magazine about the boarding school of the Paris Opera Ballet. I still remember the beautiful blue of their uniform, and I was captivated by the discussion of what it was like to perform in the Opera Garnier and the Bastille. In 2023, when we thought about going to Paris for my birthday, I subscribed to the Paris Opera Ballet mailing list. When they announced their 2023-2024 season, I was stoked to see the Nutcracker (Casse Noisette) being performed. I got up at 4:00am to buy tickets on the day sales opened. Our entire 2023 trip to Paris at Christmas was built around when I could find availability.

It did not disappoint. Guillaume Diop and Dorothée Gilbert are incredible. We were 5th row center at the Opera Bastille, and it was truly a bucket list experience for me. Casse Noisette is not part of their season every year, so it’s extra special when you find it on there. However, there is always a ballet performance in December, and it’s a great way to spend an evening. Further, the Paris Opera Ballet school does demonstrations every year during this time, so that’s a great way to see up and coming ballet stars.

Galeries Lafayette Christmas Displays & Rooftop Ice Skating Rink

I thought the holiday displays in New York City were amazing and then I went to Galeries Lafayette.  It’s beautiful at any time of year, but is absolutely astounding at Christmastime.  The Christmas tree at Galeries Lafayette seems to transcend gravity and the backdrop is amazing. However, don’t stop at the department store. 

Head to the rooftop for the ice skating rink and incredible views of the Eiffel Tower and the back of the Garnier Opera House.  It’s a great place to see the sunset in Paris. I have very fond memories of watching the Paris sky change from this rooftop. If outdoor ice rink on a rooftop doesn’t appeal to you, head to the Grand Palais for one of the world’s largest indoor ice skating rinks.

Try the Bûche de Noël

Spending Christmas in Paris means that you can try the famous Buche de Noel dessert.  The Buche de Noel (yule log) is a traditional chocolate roulade dessert. In 2019, a magazine in Le Spa at the Park Hyatt Paris profiled the famous pastry chef at the Ritz Paris and his chocolate hazelnut take on this traditional dessert.  Did you say chocolate hazelnut?  SOLD.  We had dessert and a nightcap at the Bar Vendome on their (covered) terrace under the stars.  It remains one of our favorite Christmas experiences and one we tend to repeat.  It’s a splurge worth making, but make a reservation. 

If Bar Vendome isn’t in your budget, there is a small chalet in front of the Ritz that sells pastries and warm beverages.  I recommend on splurging on one of their sweet treats.  They have tables where you can enjoy the view of the Place du Vendome and your sweet treat.  You can also hit up the Ritz Comptoir Pastry shop that opened in 2021.  (I love to pick up cookies for the flight home!) They sell the Buche de Noel in two sizes, and you can take it to go. We’ve done click and collect Le Comptoir when we couldn’t get a reservation at Bar Vendome!   

Learn to Make the Buche de Noel

In 2022, I took a Buche de Noel pastry class at the Ritz Paris, and I would put that on your Paris Christmas wishlist! I think this is one of the best things to do in Paris in December, and the Ritz Escoffier generally offers several dates starting in early December and continuing through the days leading up to Christmas.

The buche recipe changes from year to year, so you could make this a tradition, if you wanted to! It’s a half day course in the kitchens of the iconic Ritz Paris hotel, and you will leave with your own perfect Buche de Noel to enjoy at home, the recipes, and some incredible baking skills.

I’ve taken several half day, full day and weeklong pastry classes at the Ritz, and while it can be a little intimidating, it’s also such a cool thing to do! The course is taught in French, but they do provide interpreters. If you wanted to gift this experience, Francois Perret, the head pastry chef at the Ritz Paris, has a beautiful cookbook, French Pastry at the Ritz Paris, that you could include with a gift card for the experience.

If the Ritz Paris Escoffier is fully booked, Cookn with Class also offers a Buche de Noel class on select dates in December.

Take a Walking Tour of Paris on Christmas Day

One of benefits of being in a city is that there will be things to do throughout the holiday season. I’m not saying it will be wide open like the US, but there are things to do in Paris on Christmas Day (and on other holidays). We have found that Paris Walks and their incredible guides will generally offer walking tours on Christmas Day and New Year’s. (We really enjoyed their French Revolution tour on Bastille Day!)

Their tours are 25 euro per person, and you can reserve by sending an email in advance. Sometimes they ask for a deposit and you’ll pay the balance in cash on the day of your tour.

Paris Museum Tours

One of the best things to do in Paris at Christmastime is to take advantage of the museums!  Paris museums are so much quieter in the winter.  The Musee d’Orsay is one of my favorite museums in the entire world and I’ve visited numerous times throughout the years, over the years, but it is always fairly busy.  We booked a tour of the Musee d’Orsay on Saturday morning, and we basically had the museum to ourselves both during the tour and afterwards.  The tour was incredible and provided a great introduction to both the museum and the impressionist artists.  It provided a great historical framework of what was going on both in Paris and in the art world.  Later on this trip, when we took a walking tour of Montmartre, we were able to learn more about how the artists worked in Paris, specifically.  (This free tour starts at Moulin Rouge and ends at Sacre Coeur, so you’ll get the entire scope of the neighborhood frequented by the Impressionists!)

Another tour I recommend is a night tour of the Louvre.  There is just something about being in the Louvre after hours that gives it a sense of mystery and magic to this daunting museum.  This evening tour made the museum feel less daunting and more intimate.  It covers many of the famous paintings and sculptures, so don’t worry about missing the Mona Lisa.  The Louvre collection would take a lifetime of visits, but this is a good tour to start with on your first trip to Paris. After your tour, your can head to the Marché de Noël at Jardin des Tuileries for an easy dinner, mulled wine, and some sweet treats.

Paris Museum Pass

If you aren’t a guided tour person, I would recommend purchasing a Paris Museum Pass.  While you might not need the skip-the-line capabilities in the winter, it provides the ultimate flexibility in terms of visiting 60 major Paris museums and attractions.  You can also use it to go to the top of the Arc de Triomphe and watch the Eiffel Tower sparkle, which is also a great way to see the lights of the Champs Elysées from above, too. You’ll want to double check the closing dates and purchase the appropriate number of days based on your trip.  For example, most sites are closed on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, so you could buy a 4 day pass instead of a 6 day pass, depending on your arrival date.

Don’t Miss: Musee de l’Orangerie – This small, manageable museum is in the running for one of my favorite museums in Paris.  Monet’s work is truly incredible in person.  Go when they open or late in the day to have the lilies to yourself.

Don’t Miss:  Musee de l’Armee – A fascinating look at France’s military history.  A must-see for anyone who wants to better understand Napoleon or appreciates military uniforms.  The Paris pass doesn’t cover special exhibitions, but it’s worth looking into seeing what is on exhibition.

Don’t Miss:  Sainte-Chapelle – One of the most breath-taking churches I’ve ever been in.  Go on a sunny day to really appreciate all the stained glass windows and the beautiful colors. I love going to Ste. Chapelle around noon because it’s not quite as busy, but you get that beautiful noon-day light.

Learn to Make Croissants and Baguettes in Paris

If you really want to appreciate some of the “basic” French breads, you need to take a croissant and baguette class in Paris.  It’s incredible how labor intensive these pastries are – and it’s amazing how inexpensive they are!  (The croissant dough takes 3 days to make!)  Just as an FYI, if you don’t speak French, Chef Didier will likely use an interpreter.  You’ll learn exactly how a French bakery works (like clockwork, truly) and learn how to make croissants, pain et chocolat, and different types of baguettes.  You get to take your baguettes (and the recipes) home with you!

Food Tour of the Marais

We’ve taken a lot of food and wine tours in Paris. This Marais food tour is one of the best ways to try different flavors of France, and I think it was the best food tour we’ve taken in Paris.  The tour starts at the Le Marché des Enfants Rouges with a cheese and wine tasting and winds through the Marais for numerous tasty stops.  We tried the delicious choux pastries filled with cream, marmalades and jams, macarons, falafel, chocolate, olive oils, balsamic vinegars, and other specialties from Provence, and Corsican specialties.  This tour is a great way to shop for Christmas gifts and souvenirs to take home, too.  We actually visit one of the stores and bring things home every time we go to Paris now!

I would love to try a chocolate and pastry tour of Saint Germain des Pres and the Left Bank.  We wandered through there on our last trip to Paris and there are so many delicious looking shops!  This neighborhood is directly across the Seine from the Louvre, if you are looking for somewhere to explore that is a little less high end than Vendome.

Marchés de Noël // Paris Christmas Markets

There are approximately 15-20 Christmas markets that pop up all over Paris throughout late November and December.  We made it three of them during a six day trip to Paris.  (There is just so much to do in Paris, especially at Christmas!)  When we go back, I would love to do this Paris Christmas market food tour to see more of them and learn more about the local foods and traditions.  The Paris Visitors Bureau will have the most up to date information on the Christmas markets throughout the city.  One thing that I think is really neat about Paris is that they have a lot of country-specific markets throughout December.  Much like the Tuscany Christmas markets, you have to plan your trip around the specific dates, but what a great adventure!

2023 Paris Christmas Market Dates

• 11/18/2023 – 01/07/2024 – Jardin des Tuileries Christmas Market
• 11/25/2023 – 01/01/2024 – St Germain Christmas Market
• 11/28/2023 – 12/31/2023 – Hotel de Ville Christmas Market
• 12/01/2023 – 12/17/2023 – Alsace Christmas Market at Gare de l’Est (However, I highly recommend adding a trip to Alsace to your France itinerary.  The Christmas markets in Alsace are amazing. We’ve taken a few trips along the route du vin. It never disappoints.)
• 12/14/2023 – 01/02/2024 – Eiffel Tower Christmas Market
• 12/08/2023 – 12/25/2023 – Notre Dame Christmas Market 
• 11/24/2023 – 01/07/2023 – Abbesses Christmas Market
• 12/16/2023 – 12/28/2023 – Montmartre Christmas Market

Louvre / Jardin des Tuileries Christmas Market

We usually stay in the 2nd or 8th arrondissements when we come to Paris at Christmas. We walked through the Tuileries Christmas Market on our way to walk along the Seine.  I couldn’t wait to come back and check it out when I was hungry.  There are so many smells and so many foods to try! This Christmas market is very family friendly with carnival games, rides, and food for everyone.  The market runs from mid-November until early January, so you’ll still get to enjoy it, even if your travels take you to Paris after Christmas and into the new year!

Similar to the Santa Croce Christmas market in Florence and the Bordeaux Christmas market, there is an international flair to the food stalls.  From the French raclette and vin chaud, to Spanish paella to German sausages and beer, you can go on a tour of Europe without ever leaving Paris. We actually had one of our dinners at this Christmas market because everything smelled SO good!  Check out this post before you go and make a list of the best foods to try in Paris!

Notre Dame Christmas Market

The Notre Dame cathedral is still closed for restoration until 2024, so I didn’t know if the Christmas market would still be happening.  On our way to dinner in the Latin Quarter, we found it right across the Seine.  While it is a lot smaller than the Louvre Christmas market, it is just as lively and local.  My favorite part of this Christmas market were the local musicians.  It added so much ambiance and warmth to an otherwise cold and rainy evening.  If you’re looking for local, high-quality gifts, this is your market.  (Excuse the quality of the photos – it was pouring down rain!)

Hotel de Ville Christmas Market

Of course the Paris city hall has one of the most magical Christmas markets in Paris.  The first time we saw it was when we were walking from our hotel to Bastille for dinner.  The city hall was awash with blue light, there was loud and lively music, and a carrousel for the kids.  It was packed every time we went by it!  We decided to save it for a visit on a morning when it was a little less busy, but it fills up so quickly.  It looked like all the wooden stalls were selling French products, including fresh crepes, raclette, and vin chaud.  

This market is a lot smaller that the Tuileries Christmas market, but it is larger than the Notre Dame market.  (I feel like Goldilocks describing these markets!)

Where to Eat in Paris at Christmastime

While I’ve posted about some of our favorite restaurants in Paris, I thought I would highlight a few restaurants for a cozy meal.  Many small restaurants in Paris close for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day, but some are open. Some close for the entire week between Christmas and New Year’s. If I could give you one tip, it would be to call and get reservations. You’ll want to start in late November, but you should know that some may ask you call back within two weeks of your date. By that time, it may be too late. Don’t wait to find out what’s open when you get there.

Below are a few places that we enjoy for their ambiance and delicious food.  It is not meant to be an exhaustive restaurant guide for Paris. With so many restaurants in Paris, that would be impossible.  If none of these recommendations appeal to you, Le Fooding and its app are a great place to start Paris restaurant research. It’s also worthwhile to reach out to your hotel concierge for their recommendations. Often times, they will have a list of who is going to be open, whether there are set menus, and are happy to help with reservations. That’s actually how we learned to navigate New Year’s Eve in Florence!

Le George at the Four Seasons Paris (8th arrondissement)

After an unbelievable meal in summer 2023 at Le George, Tom and I had to find out if it really was that good or if we were letting the wine cloud our judgement.

Spoiler alert: We went back two nights in a row. It really is *that* good.

One of the reasons we went back again is because they had an Alba white truffle menu that I wanted to try. We had the truffle menu at Il Palagio in Florence last Christmas, but I had not been able to confirm that it would be available this year. (Real) truffle is not offered all the time, so I wanted to take advantage of it when I could. I ordered the white truffle risotto, and it was incredible. It’s a splurge, but it’s a good splurge if you’re going to do it. The ambiance is straight up magical at Christmas.

The other great thing about Le George is that, for a Michelin starred restaurant in Paris, the price can be very fair. They have an extensive wine list and a great sommelier, so you can make the meal as expensive as you want. This is actually one place where they really stood out to us though. When we visited in July 2023, we had two amazing bottles of wine from small producers. (We actually went to visit the Montalcino winery in November and bought several bottles of the wine while we were there.)

When we returned in December 2023, the wine list was different. We chose two different bottles of Italian with help from the Sommelier. When we knew we would be returning the next night, we asked the Sommelier to think about some French wines we should try in a particular price range. Upon arrival, we were met by the Sommelier who had come up with several options for us to try, including a wine from Le Cinq’s wine list, the other restaurant at the Four Seasons Paris. Everything presented was within our price range, and they were truly special recommendations.

Le George is truly a special experience, and it’s definitely worth the splurge. The staff is very kind, the food is incredible, and the wine list is extensive and fair. My friend Ana the wine pairing, instead of buying a bottle, and she loved the wines. They ended up buying a few bottles of them and sending me the list. We’ve tried some of them, and they are exceptional. Yes, you could spend a lot of money on wine, but if you know what you want to spend, they will work within that.

Sacree Fluer (18th arrondissement)

This is absolutely my favorite steakhouse in Paris.  We’ve never had a bad meal here, and they have some of the kindest people you’ll ever meet.  You need a reservation for Sacree Fleur; it’s a tiny restaurant not far from Sacre Couer.  On our first visit, we got the last table of the night and have watched them turn many people away ever since, even in the low season.  

This cozy restaurant in perfect for carnivores to try all the French specialties, including onion soup, snails, frog legs, duck, and steak served with blue cheese, shallot, and peppercorn sauce.  Personally, we love the cote de bouef, but they have other cuts available, too. I love every dessert I’ve tried here, but the apple sorbet and calvados is an absolute must. If you’re one of those people that can’t do ice cream in cold weather, the tarte tatin (flambéed with calvados!) is delicious, too. Sacree Fleur has one of the calvados I’ve ever tried, and I actually prefer it to the ones we tried in Honfleur.

They have a small but mighty wine list, and they make great recommendations on wine. Part of the reason that we ended up visiting Bordeaux is because of the wines we’ve tried at Sacree Fleur. Next up on our France itinerary will be Cotes du Rhone and Languedoc because of them… All of our exploration of wine has happened very organically and it’s largely because of people we meet and experiences we’ve had. It is a great way to travel.

Le Petit Chalet (5th arrondissement)

If you are looking for a classic French bistro experience near the Notre Dame Christmas market, you can’t get any closer (or better) than Le Petit Chalet! Now, I know what you’re thinking – it’s on a main street adjacent to the Seine, next to Shakespeare and Company, and in the shadow of Notre Dame – how good could it be? It’s a pleasant surprise and you shouldn’t be swayed by the location.

You will need to call for a reservation, tables are close together and cozy, and the daily menu is written by hand. We were lucky enough to have a table in the front dining room with a view of the open fire, in which we watched the staff bustle around and cook their dishes to perfection. But, they have an upstairs and tables with a view of Notre Dame, which may be the move when the cathedral reopens in all her glory in 2024.

The menu changes quite a bit, and while the dishes aren’t much to look at, the food is very tasty. I really liked how cozy the ambiance was. While I don’t find Paris too cold at Christmas, I love finding a warm and cozy restaurant to warm up at with a good meal before strolling home through the Christmas lights, and Le Petit Chalet fits the bill perfectly.

Bistrot Richelieu (1st arrondissement)

Bistrot Richelieu is a classic Parisian bistro experience.  Recently remodeled, it has a lot of character and romantic ambiance.  It is a great place to enjoy a leisurely meal or happy hour before heading out to dinner.  Our kind waiter made tasty recommendations on everything from drinks to the dinner menu.  It is where we ordered our first French onion soup and a traditional entrecôte with shallot sauce.  Tom found a French beer that he really enjoyed, but he’s still disappointed that he didn’t try the duck.  They do take reservations by phone and email.

East Mamma (11th arrondissement)

East Mamma is listed in one of my favorite Paris guide books and I saved it for our honeymoon.  We didn’t make it there.  When I read about it on Mackenzie’s blog, I knew we had to try it.  We walked from Vendome to Bastille (and back) for this meal.  Thank goodness for the walk because the food was incredible.  Everything was incredibly rich and the walk was a nice way to walk it off.  Their famous truffle pasta is worth it.  Tom was suspicious so he ordered a pizza, but when we go back, we will both be ordering the truffle pasta.  We ordered two desserts, but we should have only ordered one.  Both the profiterole and the nocciola pizza are delicious, but they are both big enough to be split between two people.

This is probably the most trendy restaurant that I have recommended.  It doesn’t take reservations, so you’ll want to be there when they open.  We arrived about 15 minutes before they opened and a line was already starting to form.  I would expect it to be even busier during other times of the year.

Gambino (1st arrondissement)

Gambino is super close to the Park Hyatt, so on our first couple trips to Paris in the winter, we generally had our first dinner there.  It was the best bet for an easy meal to beat jet lag.  The service is always incredibly friendly, even on Valentine’s Day (with no reservations)!  The food is unique and absolutely delicious.  I recommend their raviolini with prosciutto, asparagus, and truffle cream sauce or pizza Genovese.  Truthfully though, everything we’ve ordered at Gambino has been good though.

Best Place to Stay in Paris at Christmas

When you’re thinking about where to stay in Paris for Christmas, you’ll want to consider a few different things. The most important questions you have to ask yourself is how do you do in cold weather and do you enjoy walking, even when it’s cold? If you’re someone who doesn’t like the cold, you’ll want to think about staying close to a metro stop. We LOVE walking in Paris, even in the winter, so we don’t have to be right next to a metro stop. I find the area around Rue Sainte Honore, Rue Cambon, and Place du Vendome to be the most atmospheric with Christmas lights (but not as crowded as the area behind Opera), so I love to stay there at Christmas.

If you are hoping to use points for your stay, book your room early. You can get off-peak rates if you are visiting Paris in December, and I regularly do at the Park Hyatt Paris. It’s also a great time to look for great rates at smaller hotels that may not pull as many American tourists as the large chain hotels.

Park Hyatt Paris (2nd arrondissement)

We’ve stayed at the Park Hyatt Paris on on seven? (I’ve lost count) trips to Paris and it’s been incredible every time.  The room that we had over Christmas in 2019 is my favorite though.  It was on the 6th floor with vaulted ceilings.  Not only was the room huge, but it was an incredible and efficient use of space.  Though the room only had one small window, it did not feel dark and it was incredibly well lit.  We’ve had at least 5 different rooms at the Park Hyatt Paris, so it’s worth noting your preferences with the hotel if you feel strongly.

While there are less expensive hotels in Paris, there are a few things that keep us coming back to the Park Hyatt.  The first one is the spa.  At the end of a long day, there is no better way to relax and recharge than in the spa and the sauna at Le Spa.  I’m a huge fan of their Le Mer facials and body treatments, but the massages are also amazing.  We get so much use out of the spa when we stay at this hotel.  During our Christmas trip, we started going in the mornings, as well as the evenings, which felt truly luxurious, especially considering how much we had to walk.  (More on that below.)

The second one is the location.  The Park Hyatt is close to several metro stops, but it is also ideal for walking to most attractions and restaurants.  We have been in Paris for the transportation strikes and the yellow vest protests.  We would not have been able to see as much as we did if we had not been within walking distance of the main attractions.  We stayed near Etoile on our honeymoon and it was a trip to get anywhere.  Fortunately, we had the metro at our disposal, but we also relied on cabs quite a bit more, too.  Staying near Vendome means that we can walk to any of the main sights, although the Eiffel Tower feels a bit far, at times.

Third, it’s the best place to indulge the holiday spirit.  Vendome is the perfect place to stay in Paris at Christmas because of how beautiful the area is.  The Champs Elysees has nothing on Vendome.  Our entire street was decked out with Christmas trees, Christmas lights, and the Place du Vendome was magical.  It’s also a very short, scenic walk to the Tuileries Christmas market at the Louvre.  A lot of the expensive shops have beautiful displays.  The Louis Vuitton store had the most magnificent starburst when we were there.  Just stunning.

Hotel du Louvre Paris (1st arrondissement)

The Hotel du Louvre is the perfect place for sightseeing and museum hopping.  You walk out, cross the street, and you’re in the Louvre and the Tuileries Christmas market.  If you cross the Seine, you’re at the Musee d’Orsay.  If you need to get around, the Palais Royale metro stop is right outside the hotel.  From there, you can travel along the Seine, or travel a few spots to Chatlet / Les Halles and connect anywhere in Paris!

I always request a quiet room when we travel to Paris, so we typically receive rooms that overlook interior courtyards.  In this case, we stayed in a junior suite on the 5th floor.  This suite isn’t large, but it is  very well designed.  We loved having a sitting room where we could enjoy an in-room picnic separate from our bedroom.  

The room details feel very luxurious and high end.  Our room had two small built-in closets, which weren’t ideal for long dresses, but I was able to make it work.  The built-in closet drawers meant that they didn’t have more furniture than necessary in the room.  It worked really well for us.

The bathroom is definitely on the smaller side, however the walk-in shower is actually quite large, especially for Europe.  It offers both an overhead shower and a hand shower. Perfect for winter and cooler Paris temperatures, I loved the warm bathrobes and slippers.  The Fragonard bath amenities were perfectly branded and fit the aesthetic of the hotel.  

As an arrival gift, we received madeleines and a bottle of lemonade.  The previous occupant had left his arrival gift, a bottle of red wine, so we enjoyed that, too.  The Hotel du Louvre does offer free breakfast for Hyatt Globalist members in its restaurant.  We didn’t take advantage of it, but I’m sure it’s delightful.  Everything about this hotel was perfect.  

I first found out about this hotel from Heather, who stayed her with her large family, so I know it has room for everyone if you’re planning a large family trip to Paris at Christmas.  There were a lot of families with young children staying at the hotel when we were there.  That being said, I believe it is perfect for a romantic getaway to Paris as well.  Paris luxury hotels are expensive and many run more than $1,000 per night.  If that isn’t in your travel budget, the Hotel du Louvre is still a luxurious romantic experience. If you’re looking to maximize your ROI with Hyatt points, the Hyatt Paris Etoile is a great option. We had a great stay there in 2023.

Hotel Dress Code Paris (9th arrondissement)

After doing a lot of hotel research, I was really excited to find Hotel Dress Code, which is just steps from the Place Vendome and the Ritz Paris.  It is an incredible hotel at a great price point.  We spent a week here and really enjoyed the location.  It is on a quieter street than both the Park Hyatt and Hotel du Louvre with easy access to the metro.

One thing that stood out about Hotel Dress Code was how welcoming the staff was.  They were always quick to check if we needed anything or if they could help.  We had a really tight train connection and were having difficulty finding a cab, and they immediately sprung into action to help make sure we were able to make it to the train station on a busy Friday afternoon.    

The rooms at Hotel Dress Code offer a lot of color, chic details, and gorgeous fabrics.  The rooms are individualized and you book based on size of the room.  I booked a medium room, which was classified as a superior room.  Like most hotel rooms in Paris, the rooms here are on the smaller side.  That being said, they are efficiently and expertly designed.  Our room had a small desk, a queen bed, and a decently-sized bathroom with a large walk-in shower.  Our window opened up to an interior courtyard, which was very quiet.  I loved the soft pink and gray accents in our room.  The white marble bathroom was gorgeous with stunning tile work in the shower.  It was very cozy and romantic.  

The hotel offers both breakfast and an honor bar on site, and the lobby has plenty of work space during the day.  You can book a private visit to the hotel spa on the lower level.  They have a sauna and pool.

As far as getting around, the Madeline and Opera metro stops are a short distance from the hotel.  You can easily walk to the Louvre, the Tuileries, and beyond from this hotel.  If you’re wanting to stay in, there is a small grocery store next to the hotel.  We ended up with fresh, warm baguettes on our first night in Paris, which made for a perfect apertivo before heading out to dinner.  (More detailed review of Hotel Dress Code and what is nearby!)      

Navigating Paris Transportation Strikes

I should note that the Paris transportation strikes had been going on for a few weeks when we arrived.  We were seeing a lot of reports of restaurants and stores suffering as a result of it.  While we experienced some disruption when getting from the airport to our hotel, overall, we did not let affect our trip.

We took the RER B to Gare du Nord and then took a taxi to our hotel.  It took us over an hour to get a taxi.  Uber wait times were similar.  In retrospect, it would have been more efficient to book car service from the airport to the hotel, but we weren’t in a hurry.

When we flew from Orly to Rome on Christmas Eve, we had our hotel arrange a car in advance because we didn’t know how difficult it would be to find a taxi, given the challenge we had when we arrived.  We also weren’t sure how the traffic would be around rush hour.

Beyond that, we used our own two legs to see Paris.  It did result in us not seeing as much or covering as much ground as we would normally do, but we didn’t feel comfortable utilizing transportation during rush hour for sightseeing.  We wanted to respect the spirit of the strike and ensure that the locals were able to get to and from work in the way that they needed to.

What to Pack for Paris in December

Since Paris in winter is temperate (compared to our winter trip to Prague and Vienna’s Christmas markets), I didn’t need my cuddleduds very often, if at all.  I recommend taking at least one pair on every winter trip though.  I tend to pack an assortment of cashmere sweaters that I can dress up or dress down.  They keep me warmer than cotton sweaters, don’t require thermals like wool sweaters do, and generally don’t wrinkle.  Last Call by Neiman Marcus has great sales on cashmere throughout the year.  I tend to buy my sweaters on clearance and they last throughout the year. I have a couple of Akris Punto blazers and Marta Scarampi capes that I love to pair with a Wolford body suit.  I always pack a pair of Wolford velour leggings, which have a suede look and look more polished than my J. Crew Factory Gigi pants. Depending on how I’m feeling, I’ll pack my J Brand Maria skinny jeans (a favorite of Princess Catherine!) or my L’Agence Selma boot cut jeans.

I have a knee-length Pueterey down coat that is perfect for winter anywhere.  As far as shoes go, I purchased a pair of flat Stuart Weitzman 50/50 boots and they have served me well thus far in terms of being both stylish and comfortable.  If you are heading to colder destinations, I recommend lined Ugg boots (with thick socks) to keep your feet warm!  (I bought mine on clearance and they have lasted more than 8 years!)

Dressing up in Paris

I usually pack a wool dress in case I want to dress up for dinner. This Emilia Wickstead Meryl dress packs perfectly and doesn’t need any pressing. It’s a great weight for winter temperatures. (You might recognize the blue version from our anniversary photos in Florence!) I took the blue Stella McCartney gown that I wore for my birthday dinner in Florence for the Paris Opera Ballet. We were *way* overdressed, but it’s fun to dress up. While not the most practical for winter, I went for comfort and packed my favorite Sarah Flint heels. I had no problem walking from Le George to the Park Hyatt Paris. (Save 15% with my Sarah Flint discount code: SARAHFLINT-CCSARA2!)

Paris weather in December is fairy gray and a bit more rainy.  We always pack a set of study umbrellas that fit into my day bag.  The Park Hyatt offers them when you leave, if rain is in the forecasted, if you don’t want to travel with your own.  We just find it is easier to carry the smaller ones.

Listen, Learn & Read More

Listen

If you want to skip guided tours, Rick Steves offers free audio tours of Paris.  The Rick Steves app offers snippets of his radio show.  One of the most interesting episodes on Paris (to me) is the Eat Like a Parisian episode.  This helped us understand why we would want to seek out separate shops to make our picnic, rather than relying on Monoprix.  Monoprix does not have good bread.  Eric Kayser, easily found throughout Paris, has good bread and I prefer his pastries to Paul, if you need to pick up bread in a hurry.  There is always a line for lunch and things sell out, so stop by earlier rather than later.

Learn

There is not a singular complete guide to Paris, in my opinion.  I don’t think there’s a single guide (or blog post to anywhere).  I like to take a little bit from this, a little bit from that, and pull things together to create our trip itineraries.  Currently, the most helpful guides have been Paris Day by Day and Top 10 Paris.  These small books fit easily into my day bag.  Tom prefers the Rick Steves Paris book for the walking tours, though I find the Day by Day book has some good walks in it, too.  We also love the Frommer’s 24 Great Walks book and Paris City Walks cards.

Read More

I quit reading a lot of blogs before our Valentine’s Day trip because so many people said winter was such a miserable time in Paris.  (They were wrong.)  That said, Mackenize offers some great hotel and restaurant recommendations.  Brooke offers a comprehensive list of the pastry classes you can take in Paris.  There are plenty of blogs that offer a lot of different tips for Paris, and I’ve started a pinterest board just for Paris because I think we’re going to be going back again and again.  Catch me over there if you can’t find what you’re looking for below! 

Until next time, au revoir!

Our Paris Christmas Trip Video