Visiting Krakow in 4 Days
If you had asked me where we would spend the holidays at the start of this year, I don’t think that I would have said we would be visiting Krakow. Krakow has long been on our list of places we want to visit. Howeveer, it was somewhere in the middle of our list. However, in late October, I started doing some research and I found a great deal on 4 nights in Krakow. (If I had been willing to prepay, it would have been even better!) I came home and asked Tom what he thought, and he agreed that we should try it.
Once I found mid-day direct flights between CDG-KRK, it was set. We would fly into Paris for a few days before heading to Krakow. Our visit would coincide with the Christmas markets. My sister was happy to put us in contact with some of her friends. (She also armed us with a list of many of her favorite places in Krakow.) This ended up being the perfect decision. One, it pushed us to go somewhere new, and there is nothing like that NEW PLACE feeling of exploration. Two, it reminded me of how much I love the traditional Christmas market atmosphere in cities that get into it. Three, Krakow is full of history and beauty – why would we NOT visit??
In a lot of ways, visiting Krakow reminded me a bit of when we visited the Bratislava Christmas markets. It’s beautifully historic and emerging as a modern city, too. It doesn’t show off as easily as Prague or Budapest at Christmas do; it makes you work for it and look beyond the surface.
Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links for tours and products I love at no additional cost to you. You can read my full disclosure policy here.
Getting to Krakow
Looking back, I think that one of the reasons we had not traveled to Krakow yet is because it is not super connected to central Europe. We take the availability of high-speed trains for granted. Krakow is at least 6 hours from Prague or Vienna, whether you drive or take public transportation. We did find the drivers in Krakow to be quite aggressive. It seems like parking would be difficult within the old town. It really does make more sense to fly unless you are traveling exclusively to Poland.
For context, we flew to Krakow via Paris on Air France (non-stop!). After spending 4 nights in Krakow, we flew directly to Milan via Wizz Air. It worked out perfectly because we had tickets to The Nutcracker at La Scala in Milan and it was one of the few direct flights from Krakow to Italy. The airport is about a 30 minute drive to the old town. You can take a train from the airport, but you will still have to figure out how to get to your hotel from there. (Our hotel was about a 15 minute walk from the train station.) If you’re worried about the language barrier, you can book a private transfer from the airport. Uber and taxis are also available upon arrival.
I used the DK travel guide to Krakow to plan our trip. We also brought it with us and found it very useful, especially because it had information on quite a few of the churches in the old town.
Where to Stay in Krakow
When I first put Krakow on my list a couple of years ago, I had a couple of hotels in mind. At the top of my list was Hotel Copernicus, a Relais and Chateaux property, housed in a historic 16th century building. It’s located in the old town of Krakow near Wawel Castle. And, it would still be high on my list. (It’s closest to Wawel Castle, if that matters to you!)
I strongly recommend staying in the Krakow or in the Jewish quarter. Both are accessible on foot or via tram. We loved our location because we were not far from anywhere on foot.
Garamond Krakow
When I realized that we were going to end up a few nights short for Titanium, I decided to look and see if Marriott had any options. I found the Garamond, which is a boutique hotel under the Tribute brand, and I immediately booked it. We were not disappointed.
The Garamond Krakow is located a block off the Planty gardens. These gardens encircle the city. It makes for a lovely and quiet walk, even in the heart of Christmas market season. The Garamond is a renovated hotel with modern finishes and extremely comfortable rooms. While some reviews comment on how small the rooms are, we found our standard room to be quite spacious.
Our room (503) was on the fifth floor and was beautifully lit with skylights that opened. (This was helpful in being able to regulate the temperature – Europeans love their heaters!) The king bed was extremely comfortable with a plush mattress with luxurious linens. They also offered a variety of pillow sizes and firmness, which is truly an underrated luxury. Tom and I have different opinions on the perfect pillow, and the Garamond had the perfect pillow for each of us!
While the bathroom was small, it was well designed. The walk-in shower offered both an overhead shower and a hand-shower. The water pressure was good, and we did not have any issues with hot water. There was storage available under the sink. Bath amenities were Daily Beauty Secret and smelled GREAT! The heated towel rack kept the bathroom warm and very cozy.
Additionally, our room had a great desk, plenty of sitting area, and plenty of storage space. I loved the blue, gold, and grey tones of the room. The hardwood floors were a nice touch, but so was the very plush rug. The streamlined design reminded me a lot of the Pantheon Iconic in Rome. It was really well designed and comfortable for 4 nights in Krakow!
Note: The Garamond is an adults only hotel. Additionally, breakfast is not included for elite members. You can choose it as your elite benefit, but we opted for the points instead.
Krakow Travel Tips
Two of the most popular questions we got while visiting Krakow was whether or not we would visit Auschwitz-Birkenau and if we would be going to Wieliczka salt mine near Krakow. The answer to both was no. First of all, we believe (rather strongly) that your first trip to a place should be focused on better understand it collectively. Because I’ve read quite a bit about the occupation of Krakow during World War II, I wanted to better understand that before jumping into the horrors of Auschwitz. We were fortunate to have some very academic guides who were able to help me better understand Krakow and Poland before the war so that when we return, I will feel better prepared to make that trip. And, the salt mine, while integral to Poland’s history, was a secondary sight to me. To be sure, everyone we encountered encouraged us to make that trip, but they also were appreciative that we spent the time to try and learn more about Poland vs. checking off a “to do” list for European cities.
I don’t say any of this lightly. When I studied abroad 20 years ago, I realized that the sensationalized perspective of the world wasn’t enough to help me make sense of things that have happened. I needed to understand more – to dive into things in a way that helped me make sense of things. What I want people to take away from my blog and the way we travel is that you have to pursue what you are interested in and in a way that makes sense for you. I was definitely struck by our tour guides who wanted to make very clear distinctions between the things that happened in Poland and the people who carried them out. Those conversations made it very clear that the small understanding I have of world history isn’t enough. And as a result, I’m constantly seeking to understand more versus checking things off a list of things to see. I want to be ready to internalize, process, and make sense of the world in every possible way.
What to Do in Krakow
One of the things that I noticed about traveling to Krakow in December was that it was a little challenging to nail down tour guides. Almost every single tour I booked had changed to the date or the time that I originally booked. It’s not a big deal at all, but it did make it a little difficult to plan at times. I think it’s just a function of traveling during the slower season. It was very clear that tour operators were trying to combine tours and make it work for everyone. As always, we’re just glad we can find tours during the slower season, so it was fine.
With a little more time (and less work to do), I would have added a visit to the Czatoryski Musuem and the Bunkier contemporary art museum.
Take a Walking Tour of Kazimierz
Technically, this is a walking tour of Krakow and Kazimierz, though it is mostly focused on the Jewish quarter of Kazimierz. Krzysztof was an incredible guide, and our trip to Krakow would not have been the same without him. Krzysztof is fiercely proud of being Polish and was able to share so much about the history of Poland in a quick and interesting way. He took us everywhere. He introduced us to the geographic, political, religious, scientific, and artistic forces that have influenced Poland over the years. We went inside so many courtyards, synagogues, bars, and buildings because of his knowledge and insistence that to understand Poland, you have to go beyond the surface.
In many ways, Krzysztof reminded me of the tour guides we met during our trip to Croatia. He has a vivid living memory of recent events that have changed and shaped Krakow. And, with that knowledge, he communicates with a disarming honesty about the impact of historical events on present-day Krakow and Poland. If you’ve been reading my blog for awhile, you know that I read a lot books that focus on the preservation of art during World War II. One of the things we learned in Krakow is that over 500,000 Polish works of art disappeared or were destroyed during World War II. When you understand how the Polish Jewish population was all but eradicated during World War II, one can draw a conclusion about why those works were lost or destroyed. I struggled with that a lot, particularly because I was reading about some of those very things that happened in Berlin during our trip to Krakow.
I strongly recommend doing this tour on your first day in Krakow because it will give you the most insight and perspective for everything else you see during your visit. Krzysztof encouraged questions, provided countless recommendations of things to do and see, and was happy to share as much as you want to learn. It was refreshing to spend so much time with someone who was so fiercely passionate.
Visiting Wawel Castle
Some of the best advice we got was to just visit Wawel Castle at our own pace. This proved to work out really well because the day we were at Wawel Castle, there was a wind advisory and it was COLD. We liked being able to explore the castle complex on our own and our own pace. There is not as much to see as you might think, if you’re short on time, I would walk the grounds and skip the tour. There are better things to do and see in Krakow. (I would spend my time going into every single church you come across. They are all incredible and you never know what you’ll find inside!)
Polish Wine Tasting in Krakow
One of the things that you can’t find easily in the United States is Polish wine. Most aren’t exported at all. With global warming, wine regions are changing rapidly. And, because of that, we’re always interested in trying new wines and exploring different areas. (I also do not enjoy beer. No matter how much beer I try and where, it is not my beverage.)
Instead of trying to navigate a Polish wine menu, I decided to book a wine tasting in Krakow. So, one afternoon, we headed to an ultra modern wine bar that was a 10 minute walk from the old town to meet Alex. We had the bar to ourselves, and Alex was a fantastic host who shared so much with us about current landscape of Polish wine culture. They have some very interesting grapes that we haven’t tried in Italy or France. The wines were very high quality, and I especially enjoyed the white wines from around Krakow. It’s incredible how many wineries have popped up in Poland in the last 10 years!
In addition to a charcuterie board, we had the opportunity to try 3 white wines, an orange wine, and a red wine from the area around Krakow. Alex let us go slow and didn’t object when we bought a bottle to enjoy in the bar. It was very quiet and cozy, and we ended up buying a bottle that he recommended that I’ll be sending to my sister!
Take a Food Tour in Krakow
If you don’t have Polish friends who will adopt you and order everything on the menu for you to try, you need to take a food tour in Krakow. Polish cuisine felt a little intimidating to us, especially since we were a little unsure about the abundance of cabbage. Obviously, we had heard of pierogi, but we knew there had to be a lot more to Polish cuisine. And we would have missed a lot of it without more help. If I can give you a bit of advice, don’t sleep on the żurek with kielbasa and egg or the borscht (which looks like Christmas in a soup, thanks to its beetroot base)! Polish cuisine is hearty, filling, and will stick to you on those cold Krakow nights!
Visiting the Krakow Christmas Market
I booked a tour of the Krakow Christmas markets, and while our guide was fantastic, it was not a guide of the Christmas markets. She provided us a tour of old town of Krakow and the Jewish quarter. I was really disappointed because I was hoping to learn about Polish Christmas traditions. Again, our guide was amazing, and I know it was just the challenge of having to adapt to the slow season tour schedule. All that being said, if you choose to make one trip to Krakow, I would recommend visiting during the Christmas market. I loved the Krakow Christmas market!
I feel like the Cloth Hall of Krakow has largely given way to touristic souvenir shops. (It lacks any sort of authenticity that we found at the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul, which managed to feel both touristy and authentic at the same time!) However, the Kraków Christmas market felt deeply authentic. We LOVED having dinner at the Christmas market in Krakow.
I expected to find more blown glass Christmas ornaments in Krakow. That might have been my biggest disappointment. That said, there is a Christmas market stall with ornaments made in Krakow. We bought one of the cloth hall, though Tom really wanted one of the St. Mary’s church. (We didn’t find one though!) I was entertained by the Grinch ornaments, but I didn’t buy one of those either.
The Garamond is less than a 10 minute walk from the main square in Krakow. It’s the perfect location for exploring the Christmas market!
Where to Drink & Eat in Krakow
At first, we were very overwhelmed by the restaurants and bars in Krakow. Most places we found did not have an English menu, and we weren’t sure what the dining customs in Krakow were. That all changed with a single dinner with friends. Generally, we tried to eat once a day but we would stop in a bar for a mulled wine to warm up in the afternoon and again in the evening. (Krakow was quite a bit colder than most places we’ve been lately!)
We definitely had more than our fair share of meals at the Krakow Christmas Market. There is a kielbasa stand called Big Dog, and it was the best in our option. For 8 euros, we had all the kielbasa we could eat between the two of us. Prior to Krakow, we thought the Prague Christmas market in Old Town Square had the best sausages. It’s now all about the Krakow kielbasa for me!
If you don’t have advance reservations or recommendations, everyone unanimously pointed us in the direction of Kazimierz. The old Jewish quarter of Krakow has become a neighborhood of restaurants and bars, and it feels quite local. There is a center market square where you can try traditional Polish street food, too.
Marchewka z Groszkiem
Many of the restaurants and bars recommended to us were in the Jewish quarter of Krakow, a neighborhood that was vibrant and local. We met up with some friends of my sister who took us to Marchewka z Groszkiem, a traditional Polish restaurant that truly felt like dining at a friend’s home. Not knowing what to order or where to even begin, we let them make the recommendations. Everything was incredible. I would say that if you want to try traditional Polish cuisine, this is the place to do it.
The beetroot soup with mushroom dumplings was one of my favorites. I wish I had a photo so you could see how rich the beetroot color was in this soup! The white kielbasa in the sourdough soup is made specifically for this restaurant, and it’s delicious.
Let’s talk about the pierogi. We had both the duck and apple pierogi and the meat pierogi. Both were incredible. I can’t choose a favorite. They were SO filling. I could have just eaten these as my meal and been perfectly content. They are homemade and you can taste the care they put into them.
But, that’s not all… we also needed to try the placki ziemniaczane (potato pancakes). I’m not typically a potato person, but these were delicious! They have a crisp exterior, made that much better by the goulash or mushroom sauce you can add to them. (It’s also highly recommended to try them with sour cream.)
The last thing we tried were the gołabki, which is stuffed cabbage and translates to doves. This is a cabbage leaf stuffed with rice and meat and smothered in sauce. We had a spicy tomato based sauce and a goulash sauce.
Ultimately, since the Polish are proud of their cakes, I ordered the dessert of the day. We also ordered beer and wine to accompany our meal. I tried a semi-dry Georgian red wine, and it was delightful. Tom had a local beer with his meal. They also brought us a traditional Polish digestif to try.
We enjoyed this meal so much that we kept trying to find time to go back, though it would have been impossible to choose what to order because it was all so unique and tasty. Sadly, there’s only so many days in a place… but we still talk about it as one of the best meals we had on our trip. (That’s saying a lot because we don’t have bad meals, lol.)
Alchemia
Alchemia was another place that was highly recommended to us in Krakow. This quirky little bar and restaurant has multiple rooms and a diverse menu of food and drinks. I recommend going during the day so you can see the beauty of the design. The evenings are romantic with candlelight. I loved warming up with mulled wine here, and Tom loved the beer.
My sister’s book, The Needle, includes a poem about Alchemia, as well as many other poems about Krakow. It’s out of print now, but sometimes you can find a secondhand copy of it.
Is Krakow Worth Visiting?
Unequivocally, yes. Though we didn’t make it to the museums and the more artsy side of Krakow, there is so much history in the city. When I first visited Nuremberg, I felt like it held a somber atonement for the atrocities that were committed during World War II. Krakow (and Poland) are often overlooked as part of the casualties. It’s not one of the places that is covered in great detail in world history as the US knows it. Krakow finds a way to make nods to the past while keeping thoughts present. An example of this is the Singer bar, which uses the sewing tables from Schindler’s factory.
Understanding the significant loss of the Jewish population during World War II and how that has transformed present-day Poland is something that I think we need to think about as we look at what is happening in our world. Understanding how culture (and I use that term broadly) can be erased (and how quickly!) is important, too. Krakow stands as an important reminder of all of these things.
Beyond that, I found the architecture to be enchanting. You can see a variety of cultural influences over time. Walk into every church you come across. (However, know that the Poles are pretty religious and you’ll have to adhere to the mass schedule!) Hire tour guides and look for ways to go beyond the surface. In many ways, I had to work overtime to get tours scheduled for us. However, Tom and I both agreed that our experience in Krakow would not have been the same if we had not received so much local perspective from all of our guides and (now) friends!
