Where to Stay in Alsace – 6 Perfect Boutique Hotels

It’s hard to believe that it was February 2020 when I was agonizing about where to stay in Alsace. It ended up being our last trip in 2020. Since then we’ve been back to Alsace 3 times. It’s one of Tom’s favorite destinations in France, and it is a completely different vibe than Paris or Bordeaux. We love the wine as much as we love the quaint little towns. And, as I’m sure you can guess, I also really love the Christmas markets in Alsace.

Most hotels in Alsace are very small, so you’ll want to book early, especially if you are traveling during peak seasons. The best hotels in Alsace sell out early. Further, accommodations in Alsace are pretty seasonal, so if you are traveling in off-season, you might have to do a little more research. Personally, I loved visiting Alsace in off season.

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Planning Our Trips to Alsace

For our first trip to Alsace, we booked cheap flights to Paris for Valentine’s Day. After spending 5 days in Paris at Christmas, however, we decided to head to a new-to-us region and explore the Alsace wine route.  In retrospect, I’m glad I spent as much time researching hotels in Alsace as I did because we definitely wouldn’t have found Barr! We ended up spending 4 days in Alsace on our first trip, and 5-6 days on our subsequent trips. How many days in Alasce will depend on how much you want to see, whether you rent a car, and how much time you have. While the train is fast, I think it would feel too frantic to try and do it any faster than 4 days. If you only have 2 or 3 days, I would choose Strasbourg or Colmar and stay there.

First Trip to Alsace – Barr and Kaysersberg

I was pretty set on staying in Colmar initially.  Our previous stays at Relais & Chateaux properties led me to La Maison des Tetes located near Little Venice in Colmar. Unfortunately, it was closed during the dates we would be there.  The desire for a cozy, romantic Valentine’s Day led me to Les Bas Rupts in the Vosges mountains, but it was a bit too far off the route du vin for our first trip.  Eventually I stumbled upon the 5 Terres Hotel & Spa and Le Chambard (also a R&C property) and I booked two nights at each property.  This proved to be an excellent strategy.

Second Trip to Alsace – Colmar and Strasbourg

In December 2021, we headed back to Alsace.  Since the 5 Terres Hotel was fully booked, we started our trip in Strasbourg before continuing on to Colmar.  I went back to my original Alsace hotel list and booked the Hotel & Spa Regent Petite France Pavillion for four nights.  From there, we spent 3 nights at Maison des Tetes in Colmar.  

Third Trip to Alsace – Eguisheim

In Summer 2022, we spent a few days in Eguisheim, which is Tom’s favorite Alsatian village. We stayed at the James Vignoble Hotel, which was a 5 minute walk from the town center. This hotel offers simple rooms, a lovely spa, and incredible views of the vineyards. We had a car for this trip and stumbled upon a Venetian Carnival parade in Riquewihr!  

Fourth Trip to Alsace – Colmar and Strasbourg

In November 2022, we returned on a multi-generational trip to Paris and Alsace with my mom. We used trains for the entire trip. We spent 3 nights at Maison des Tetes again and 3 nights in Strasbourg at Le Bouclier d’Or. This trip coincided with the opening of the Colmar and Strasbourg Christmas markets. We were able to experience the lighting of Le Grande Sapin in Strasbourg, and it was SO cool.

Getting to the Alsace Wine Road

On two of our four trips to Alsace, we flew from the United States to Paris CDG.  From CDG, we took a train directly to Strasbourg.  The entire trip took approximately two hours and was much more efficient than driving.  Once we arrived in Strasbourg, we could pick up a rental car from Sixt at the train station and head straight for the Alsace wine road.

For our other two trips to Alsace, we took direct trains to Strasbourg and Colmar from Paris.

In retrospect, I wish we had taken advantage of visiting Strasbourg when we arrived on our first trip to Alsace.  The Cathedral is absolutely incredible.  (Don’t miss it.)  If you aren’t staying in Strasbourg, it’s worth building time to visit into your itinerary.  On our first trip, I was ready to get our road trip started and spend some time recovering from jet lag in the spa.  I thought we would have a little bit of time before we headed back to Paris, but we ran out of time for that due to rain.  Thank goodness for an easy return at Sixt.  We literally had to run to catch our train – but we made it – whew!

If you don’t want to rent a car, it is really easy to get from Strasbourg to Colmar via train.  It takes about 30 minutes and trains run frequently.  Some of the Alsatian villages are a bit more difficult to visit without a car, but I wouldn’t come to Alsace and only stay in Strasbourg.  Having both the city and village experience is worth it, especially in Alsace.  

Getting Around the Alsace Region

If you want to see the smaller towns or visit wineries, you will want to rent a car. I recommend picking up a copy of Back Roads France.  It was incredibly helpful in learning more about what to expect when driving in France.  While you don’t need a car in Strasbourg or Colmar, I do think that you should rent a car to explore Alsace.  While the bigger towns are connected by train, many stations are pretty far from the city center and you’ll miss some of the smaller towns.  

Having a car made it easy for us to get around to the smaller towns and we felt like we had a lot of flexibility.  One thing that is important to note is that the weather changes pretty frequently and from town to town.  On the day that we planned to go to Haut Koenigsbourg, it was overcast and rainy.  However, a little further south was sunny and clear.  It would have been a very different trip without a car.

We did travel in the off-season, so we did not have trouble finding parking during our day trips.  Both hotels offer private parking, though the 5 Terres Hotel & Spa parking lot is a short walk from the hotel.  It’s not unmanageable, but it can be hard to find, especially at night.  We could see our car from our room at Le Chambard. Maison des Tetes has its own secure parking, which is great. We always returned our car in Strasbourg.

I think driving around smaller town France is some of the easiest driving in Europe.  If you want to ease into driving in Europe, the Alsace region is a great place to start.     

Starting our Trip on the Alsace Wine Route

Colmar, Strasbourg, Barr and Kaysersberg (as well as so many other towns) all offer the traditional half timbered houses, so don’t let architecture be your determining factor.  For me, Barr felt like the place where the locals lived.  There was a Lidl grocery store, people were picking up takeaway pizzas, and there were more traditional stores than souvenir shops.  I loved the planter boxes that ran along the water features in town, and I am sure they are lovely in the spring and summer.

Since I knew we would be doing a lot of walking in Alsace, I chose most of our hotels because they offered spa facilities.  We have gotten a lot of use out of the spa at Borgo dei Conti, La Sommita Relais, and the Park Hyatt Paris.  European spas are a delightful way to wind down after a full day of sightseeing.

Where to Stay in Barr

There are a lot of towns to explore in Alsace.  We had no idea how extensive it was until we got there.  Tom was definitely skeptical when we hopped in the car and I sent him to Barr, but he ended up loving it as much as he loved Kaysersberg, Colmar, and Strasbourg.  (He really wants to stay in Eguisheim now, but I’ve yet to find a hotel that I’m excited about within the ramparts.  I still have a list of Alsace hotels that I want to try in the area.  The Alsace Christmas market calendar makes me want to spend an entire month in Alsace!  (We spent two weeks in Normandy, and I feel like we barely scratched the surface!) No two villages felt exactly the same to me, so don’t be afraid to venture off the beaten wine route if you find somewhere that interests you!

5 Terres Hotel and Spa in Barr

As I mentioned previously, I didn’t find a lot of reviews on the 5 Terres Hotel & Spa in Barr, but I’ve really gotten into try to find hidden gems and boutique hotels.  I’ve also started using various sites to research and book hotels, which has led me to some great hotels in Tuscany and Umbria. I really love Tablet Hotels when looking for independent hotels.  I upgraded to a Tablet Plus membership in 2021, and I get benefits like free upgrades, spa credits, and free breakfast when booking Plus hotels.  It paid for itself with one stay at il Borro this past summer.  

5 Terres Hotel and Spa Arrival Experience

However, we’re here to talk about the Hotel 5 Terres in Barr, so let’s jump right in!  We arrived in the mid-afternoon on a Thursday and the town felt pretty quiet.  We were able to pull up to the hotel and easily unload the luggage.  Check in was perfectly polite and efficient.  They escorted me to the room using the elevator and showed me the necessary details.  During that time, Tom unloaded the luggage.  

Without a bellman present, we dropped our bags off in the room before heading to park the car.

Deluxe Room at 5 Terres Hotel and Spa

I’ll be honest.  I loved everything about this room.  It was thoroughly modern with hardwood floors and timbered ceilings. The big windows that overlooked the beautiful city center.  It reminded me of the room my mom had when we stayed at the Klosterstuble in Rothenberg ob der Tauber.  Our room felt very quiet.  Granted, we traveled during off season, but we didn’t hear any of the construction nearby or restaurant noise.

The bed was comfortable and cozy.  Linens were soft, though I did find that I needed the throw blanket in the evening!  There was plenty of light available, even in the evenings, though it was soft enough to be romantic, too.  It was easy to close off the room to get a good night’s sleep though.

Our room had a small sitting area and a small desk.  It isn’t perfectly set up if you need to do a lot of work, but there are enough resources available if you need to get a few things done.  There’s also a nice lobby area where you could work, too.  The wardrobe offered plenty of storage, a safe, a mini fridge, and a tea kettle.

The bathroom offered a large walk-in shower with good water pressure.  (Some rooms have a bathtub; ours wasn’t one of them.)  Toiletries were an independent hotel brand and smelled refreshing.  (I didn’t have any issue getting the soap out of my hair!)   The vanity had plenty of room.  Robes and slippers were offered and made it easy to access the spa.  The heated towel racks ensured that our swimsuits were always dry for our next visit.  (I hate putting on a wet suit!)

5 Terres Hotel Spa

While the hotel was offering a few spa package discounts for Valentine’s Day weekend, I couldn’t bring myself to waste a moment of our days.  I had booked a Alsatian wine tasting as a surprise for Tom, so I found myself dancing around why we couldn’t take advantage of a massage at the hotel.  That said, we definitely made the most of the hotel spa.  It was by far the superior spa of these two Alsace hotels.

It is located in a vaulted cellar of the hotel, so you feel like you’re swimming in a cave.  The dry sauna is huge and there is also a hamman available.  We spent most of our time going between the dry sauna and the pool.  It was the perfect way to start the morning and end every day before we headed to dinner.  There are plenty of lounging chairs, so you could you also take a book and just enjoy the ambiance, if you wanted to.

Final Thoughts on the 5 Terres Hotel & Spa

Overall, I think the 5 Terres Hotel and Spa was the best place for us to beat the jet lag and get acclimated to the region.  I particularly enjoyed it because it allowed us to explore some lesser known parts of the Alsace wine route, and I would choose it if you are looking to get off the beaten path.  

I wish we would have taken advantage of the hotel bar (it’s lovely) or tried the restaurant.  They post their menu of the day on their instagram account and it always looks delicious!  I do think we will be back though.

If you want a sleek and modern hotels room housed in the middle of a traditional old town center, the 5 Terres Hotel & Spa is the place for you.  (I don’t have a lot of experience with Accor Hotels, but I am ready to stay at Hotel de la Cite on our next trip to Carcassonne now.)

Barr Restaurant Recommendations

My biggest regret is not trying all the boulangeries throughout Barr.  

We stopped at the Lidl on our way into Barr and purchased enough breakfast items for our entire stay.  Yet, each morning when we would head out for a walk through town, the bakery lines would be incredibly long.  The perfect pastries lined the shop windows and it felt overwhelming to choose one to stop at.  Truly, they all looked delicious.  We should have taken advantage of them!  I was a little surprised that we couldn’t find anywhere open a little later in the evening, though if I think about it, most pastry shops in Paris are closed in the early evening, too.  We did end up grabbing some sweet treats at the mini mart across from the hotel, but it wasn’t the same as picking up some fresh pastries.  Next time for sure!

Winstub du Manoir

If you are wanting to try a traditional Alsatian restaurant, Winstub du Manoir is a great option and it’s a short walk from the 5 Terres Hotel.  This appears to be a family-run restaurant, and the restauranteur was very warm and kind.  She spoke flawless French and German and some English.  We felt very welcome and, when we struggled with some translations, the other patrons were happy to help and make recommendations.  (Our only regret was not trying the tarte flambée!)  The portions are quite large, the wine is quite inexpensive, and the entire restaurant feels unpretentious – from the decor to the staff.  

We had our Valentine’s Day meal here and had no problem getting a table without a reservation.

Viande & Passion

Just outside of the old city center of Barr is Viande & Passion, a local grocery, butchery, and steak restaurant.  We stumbled into this cozy restaurant on a cold, rainy night, and after fumbling through French, we ended up with a delightful apertif and buffet, perfectly cooked steaks with delicious sauces, and crispy fries.  The restaurant staff didn’t speak any English, but they were happy to speak slowly, deliberately, and patiently.  (My French language skills were put to the test, and I’m sorry to say that I found myself having to correct my own pronunciation multiple times.  Nevertheless, our waitress never stopped listening and treating me with kindness.  I think she knew I was trying really hard. ;-))  

This was the first restaurant we tried in the area, and we were astounded to find how inexpensive the wine was.  You should really take advantage of trying several varietals of Alsatian wine while you are in the area.

La Romanella

We ended up at La Romanella on our last night in the Alsace after underestimating how many restaurants would be closed on a Sunday evening.  We were resigning ourselves to picking up a pizza when we noticed the lights were on and decided to pop in and see if they had a table.  They did.  We ordered the house red wine, split a pizza as a first course, and each ordered our own pasta.  I ordered a penne with pesto cream sauce and prosciutto.  Tom ordered the penne arrabiata.  Both were delicious, but I thought my penne was absolutely incredible.  (Does anyone make sauces as well as the French?  TBD, TBD.)  The owners were constantly coming by to check on us and ensure that we enjoyed our meal.  

While we were there, we noticed that they were doing a steady takeout business, and it’s easy to see why!  Absolutely delicious.

Visiting a Traditional Alsace Wine Route Town – Kaysersberg

Kayersberg has the traditional storybook feel of a small village in France.  I loved how you could see the wine terraces from our hotel room.  The bridges and river looked like something straight out Beauty and the Beast.  If you don’t mind traditional rooms that might feel a bit dated compared to the sleek hotel rooms that we are used to in the US, head to Le Chambard.  It sits on the edge of Kaysersberg in a beautiful red building.  (If you’re really into Michelin starred restaurants, Le Chambard has their own and Kaysersberg has several at various price points. (The rooms were renovated in 2020, so your stay might look a little different than ours!)

Where to Stay in Kaysersberg

Le Chambard Kaysersberg

As I mentioned above, I knew that Tom would want to stay in one of the “traditional” villages of Alsace and when the Relais & Chateaux property in Colmar wasn’t available.  Hotel Chambard in Kaysersberg felt like a good second option since it is also a R&C property.  We would check in on Valentine’s Day and depart a few days later.    

I booked a standard Chambard room via HRS because they were offering the best price.  (It truly pays to check around for independent hotels.)  Kaysersberg hotels are often sold out early, so you’ll want to grab a room when you find it.  

Hotel Le Chambard Arrival

We arrived on the Saturday of Valentine’s Day weekend, and the hotel was incredibly busy.  There is a gated parking lot behind the hotel.  You can use the speaker to let them know that you’ve arrived.  One of the front desk attendants met us in the parking lot, guided us to a parking spot, and helped us unload the luggage.  Because it was so busy, our entire check in experience felt very rushed.  Typically, check in is my favorite part of Relais hotels – there is usually a welcome drink, a small local snack, and they take care of transporting the luggage to your room before escorting you there personally.  

The staff was very professional and kind, but it did feel very different from our experiences at Villa Cordevigo and the Meneghetti wine resort.

One of the most fascinating things about Le Chambard is the diversity in decor.  The building itself fits with the storybook fairytale of Alsace.  The common areas are bright and modern fabrics covering period antiques.  Zebra prints covered the hallway between our room and the spa. Magenta doors complemented the very loud prints.  And yet, our hotel room, was a step back in time with thick carpet, salmon colored doors (and desk), purple damask wallpaper, and a thoroughly modern bathroom.  I wasn’t entirely sure who the hotel wanted to be.  That said, the room was perfectly comfortable, if not merely a stark contrast to the throughly modern and clean lines of the 5 Terres Hotel & Spa in Barr.

Le Chambard Standard Double Room

The room itself felt a lot smaller than the room in Barr, but it might have been because the room was more narrow and the furniture was larger.  The bedroom itself can be closed off from the bathroom and wardrobe.  It did feel a lot smaller with the door closed, but it also helped mitigate any sound and I did sleep very well.  (The mattresses are particularly nice.)  We had a hard time getting enough light in the room, though we did appreciate the small sitting area that overlooked the wine terraces.  The bathroom was very large by comparison and offered a bathtub-shower combination, which I appreciated.

The room comes with a spa bag that includes slippers, robes, and everything you need to go between your room and the spa.  We were fortunate that our room was on the same hallway as the spa, so we never had far to go.  The amenities were very similar to what we had in Barr, but the hotel could not have felt more different.  I didn’t find our room particularly cozy or romantic, but I did like the location and staying in Kaysersberg.

Le Chambard Spa

Similar to the 5 Terre Hotel Spa, Le Chambard offered a dry sauna, an indoor pool, and a whirlpool for guest use.  The pool and whirlpool is really lovely with huge windows overlooking the courtyard.  I found the pool to be a little cold for me (it was February, after all), but I did appreciate the whirlpool.  The dry sauna was very small, but was a great way to relax and warm up each morning and evening.  

We didn’t take advantage of any of the treatments, but they were also offering massages and facials, along with Valentine’s Day specials.

Final Thoughts on Le Chambard

I loved the location of this hotel, but I wish we had thought to get a restaurant reservation at the hotel restaurant.  Each night when we returned, it was obvious that we were missing out on a lovely meal at the property!  (We actually had a hard time with restaurant reservations in Kaysersberg.  We should have planned ahead better.)  If you are someone who likes sleek, modern hotels, Le Chambard probably won’t be your style.  The service was very lovely, but the hotel was very busy and many of the smaller details that we love about other Relais properties did feel overlooked.  That said, it felt very traditional and we appreciated that part of the experience.  

The staff did encourage us to come back for the Alsace Christmas markets. I’m always down for a great Christmas market.

Overall, Le Chambard feels expensive, especially when you compare it to the rooms at the 5 Terres Hotel.  HOWEVER, you pay for the experience of staying in Kaysersberg, and I think it is worth it.

Visiting the Best of Alsace – Colmar

We ended up in Colmar multiple times on our 2020 trip to the Alsace and it’s the second town we stayed in during our 2021 trip to the Alsace Christmas Markets.  We loved it so much that we returned in November 2022.  I love Colmar because its the best of all the Alsace.  It has the half-timbered charm of Kaysersberg, Eguisheim, and Riquewihr, but it has more restaurants and attractions akin to Strasbourg.  If you’re worried about getting bored of the small towns of the Alsace, Colmar can be the best place to stay to enjoy plenty of things to see and do. 

Petite Venise is beautiful.  It doesn’t get the most decked out for Christmas, so you’re not missing anything (except crowds) if you come during the slower season.  It felt as if there was a Christmas market around every corner in December, which was really nice but also really busy at times.  If you want to enjoy the architecture in Colmar in December, stay in town and get out early.  As long as we were out and about well before noon, we could enjoy the architecture to our heart’s delight. 

When things start to get busier, you can retreat to one of Colmar’s many wine bars for a degustation (wine tasting) or head back to the peaceful Maison des Tetes.  I’m not going to lie – it was truly a luxury to have a hotel in the middle of Colmar during the Christmas markets. 

Because there are SO many restaurants in Colmar, you might have better luck if you’re in Alsace without dinner reservations.  While we weren’t able to secure same-day Michelin restaurant reservations in Colmar, we were able to have some really incredible meals just outside the city center on both trips to Alsace.      

Where to Stay in Colmar

I mentioned above that I wanted to stay in Colmar on our first trip to Alsace. I spent so much time looking at hotels in Colmar, but ultimately nothing lived up to Maison des Tetes. This is one of the few Colmar hotels with parking that is easy to access in the city center. There are a lot of small boutique hotels in Colmar that I’m sure are lovely, but it’s going to be hard to sway me.

Maison des Tetes Colmar

You know how sometimes you build something up in your mind and it ends up being a let down?  Yeah, that is not La Maison des Tetes.  It is probably the best hotel in Colmar. I absolutely loved every part of La Maison des Tetes.  It is the perfect romantic hotel in Alsace, especially if you don’t need a spa.  The contrast between the ancient building and the luxurious rooms is executed perfectly.  The staff is incredibly kind and welcoming.  And, the location is steps away from everything you want to see in Colmar yet quiet in the evenings, making it the perfect Colmar retreat. And, I love the focus on high quality, local food and wine experiences.       

With only 21 rooms, this hotel does sell out.  When I found a great deal on it in November 2021, I snapped it up because it’s one of the best hotels near the Colmar Christmas market but not IN the middle of the Christmas market. In 2022, our Paris and Alsace itinerary was built around the days I could book La Maison des Tetes and the opening of the Colmar Chrismas markets.  I won’t judge you if you do the same.        

Maison des Tetes Comfort Room – Street View

Even the standard room at Maison des Tetes is designed for comfortable luxury.  Our first room offered dual windows on the main facade of the building with soft linens curtains that blocked both light and noise when necessary.  Our room had a comfortable king bed with soft linens and plenty of pillows.  Nightstands, wall sconces, and reading lights on both sides of the room made it very comfortable and provided plenty of light.

I had a small alcove with a modern recliner and coffee table (where I’m writing this review from actually), and Tom made use of a small desk and chair for his work.  Our room offered a Nespresso machine, a mini-fridge, and plenty of room for storage and hanging clothes.  The toilet was separate from the large bathroom, which was a nice touch.  I loved having a soaking tub and dual sinks.  The only thing I missed in our room was a heated towel rack, but that’s only because it got down into the low 20s in Colmar while we were there!  

The color scheme of the rooms at Maison des Tetes is a soft navy that is complemented by neutrals and beautiful wood paneling.  The exposed wooden beams contrast sharply with the modern lines of some of the furniture, but somehow it all fits together perfectly in that way that only Europeans seem to be able to pull off.  The carpet was plush but very clean.  The room felt incredibly luxurious without feeling stuffy.    

Maison des Tetes Comfort Room Courtyard View

Our second stay at Maison des Tete was just as wonderful as the first. Our third floor comfort room overlooked the courtyard, so it was very quiet in the evenings. We had two sets of windows, so the room felt open and airy during the day.

We loved the exposed beams and sloped ceilings. It felt very characteristic Alsace. The linens were soft and luxurious. There are reading lights above the bed. We had a desk with more than enough space to work, as well as an additional chair for relaxing. A furry chair isn’t exactly my vibe, but it was comfortable for curling up. The closet area had plenty of storage, as well as a mini-fridge and a coffee machine.

Our modern bathroom was huge with a separate toilet and bathtub. (My mom did not enjoy having a traditional shower, but a bathtub is such a luxury in France!) This bathroom was not quite as big as the one we had previously, but it is still HUGE for France and more than adequate.

What I love about Maison des Tetes

One of the things that really stood out to me on the second stay was the turndown service. Each evening, they would bring a treat and a personal note. On the first day, it was the Alsatian Kugelhopf cake. The second night, they left a bottle of Alsatian cremant. And, on the third night, we received a buche de Noel, a typical French Christmas dessert. This is one of the hallmarks of the Relais and Chateaux brand, and Maison des Tetes truly went above and beyond on our last stay. We LOVED it.

Those treats led us to take advantage of breakfast, which was included in our room rate. We enjoyed trying regional meats, cheeses, and pastries each morning. It is not to be missed!

Where to Eat in Colmar

La Pignata Colmar

After finding ourselves without a reservation and unable to get into restaurants in Kayerberg and Colmar in February 2020, we were frantically searching restaurants while driving aimlessly on the outskirts of Colmar and found La Pignata.  A short walk outside the city center, this restaurant could offer us a table for an hour.  Tom made a joke that we are Americans and can easily eat under an hour.  They laughed and gave us the table.  

I ordered the house speciality, a spinach ravioli with sun-dried tomatoes and a basil cream sauce.  It was incredible.  Tom kept asking me to switch food with him because he liked my pasta so much.  (Why are the French so good at cuisine?  I’ve yet to find a cuisine they don’t make well.)  Halfway through our meal, I acquiesced and switched entrees with Tom.  I finished his pizza so he could enjoy my pasta.  (That’s true love and it was Valentine’s Day weekend, after all.)  We split a tiramisu for dessert.  

The wine and the service was excellent.

Wine Tasting in Colmar

Domaine Martin Jund Colmar

After being turned down for a reservation for a second year in a row at Enopasta Bradi, we stumbled upon Domaine Martin Jund, a winery (and hotel) offering tastings of Alsatian wines.  We made a reservation for later that afternoon, thinking it would the perfect apertivo before braving the Colmar Christmas markets for dinner.  Martin Jund is a biologic winery, which produces wines with no added sulfates.  I was very surprised to learn that they bring the grapes right into Colmar, crush them in their courtyard, and then produce the wines in the cellar below the tasting room.  While I’ve visited numerous wineries in Italy that are self-contained in the countryside, it was incredible to see this in the city center of Colmar!  

Between Tom and I, we shared 2 glasses and tried 8 different Alsatian wines.  We tried 6 whites, 1 sparkling white, and 1 red.  Surprisingly, I fell in love with the Gewurztraminer (especially the late-harvest varietal!) and the Muscat (literally like biting into a grape).  I’m usually a huge fan of the pinot gris and the pinot blanc in Alsace, but I really enjoyed the Gewurztraminer at this tasting.  It’s also the first winery I visited where I could taste the soil differences that they explained. 

If you are going to be visiting during a busier months, I recommend booking your tasting in advance.  If you’re visiting during the Colmar Christmas markets, make sure to pick up a glass of their vin chaud blanc to warm up.  (I might need to send a few bottles of this home for winter.)

Visiting a Fairytale Town in Alsace – Eguisheim

Eguisheim is one of my husband’s favorite towns in Alsace.  He loves Beauty and the Beast and Eguisheim was the setting that inspired Disney’s rendition of it. One of the things that I love about Eguisheim is that it is very quiet, especially in the evening. Even when we visited for the Christmas markets, it didn’t feel too busy. During the holiday season, it is possible to get from Eguisheim to Colmar via bus. During the spring and summer months, you can bike between the two villages. I highly recommend booking a tour with Colmar Bike Tours! 

Where to Stay in Eguisheim

There are not a lot of hotels in Eguisheim.  And, there are not any luxury hotels in Eguisheim. Most accommodations are apartment style rentals or 2-star hotels. I was really excited to find the James Vignoble hotel, which overlooks the vineyards.  It is recently renovated and offers a nice spa. It is a 5-10 minute walk from the Eguisheim Christmas market and town center.    

James Vignoble Hotel

When we visited in July 2022, I booked a classic room with a king bed.  Our room was on the lowest level of the hotel, which provided us with a nice terrace overlooking the vineyard. It was a small room, but the price was very fair at the time. You will want to make sure you book the category of room you are comfortable with, too.  

The king bed was very low, but it ended up being unexpectedly comfortable.  Similar to the Hotel Goldener Hirsch in Salzburg, we had dual down comforters.  The air conditioning was very strong for France, which was a nice perk for the summer.  Overall, I found the room a bit dark, and I would book a first floor room on our next trip.  

The bathroom was very small. It’s probably the smallest bathroom I’ve had at a hotel room in France, if I’m being completely honest. The shower was small, the water pressure was fine, and there was only one morning where we had a temporary issue with hot water. I would plan your shower at “off peak” hours, just in case though.  Our room didn’t have a bathtub, but I believe you can book a room that does. (Bathtubs are becoming less common in France, it seems.)   

James Vignoble Hotel Spa & Property Amenities

The hotel offers an indoor lap pool, an outdoor swimming pool, a jacuzzi, and a sauna. The sauna was my favorite part! It is is enclosed in glass and extends into the vineyards.  You can also book spa treatments in advance. Other amenities include a bar that serves Alsatian wines by the glass and the bottle.  The prices were very reasonable. 

Breakfast can be added on at 15 euro per person, which we didn’t taken.  There is easy parking at the hotel. The location of the hotel is very convenient for exploring the nearby towns by car, on foot, or by bike. We ended up going to Kaysersberg and Colmar for dinner on the nights when the restaurants in Eguisheim were closed.    

Visiting the Capital of Christmas – Strasbourg

Strasbourg is a lovely paradox of old and new.  In a lot of ways, it reminded me our trip to the Nuremburg Christmas markets because of you have these incredible historic buildings in the middle of a bustling city.  In other ways, it reminded me of everything I loved about wandering the small Alsatian villages – incredible scents (and restaurants) around every corner, beautiful canals to follow along a river, and friendly people everywhere you go.  Oh, and did I mention the boulangeries?  Picking up baguettes and seasonal French pastries was the highlight of my time in Strasbourg!    

Despite some issues a few years ago, the Strasbourg Christmas markets feel very safe.  There are a lot of security precautions, but they don’t distract from the overall vibe of the Christmas market. We booked a food tour of Strasbourg for our first night.  I cannot recommend this enough because it’s a great introduction to the local flavors.  Every tour that we’ve done with Eating Europe has been exceptional and we’ve always left full.  I am particularly grateful to Bahema who introduced us to the stand with the best vin chaud blanc in Strasbourg.  Nowhere else even comes close.

We actually ended up enjoying quite a few meals at the various Christmas markets because we didn’t get dinner reservations in advance.  (Why I didn’t learn from our 2020 trip, I’ll never know.)  We were really good at warming up for apertivo at Le Meteor before heading to the markets for food.

Speaking of things that don’t come close, do not miss the Cathédrale Notre Dame de Strasbourg.  This might be my second favorite cathedral – second only to Ste. Chapelle in Paris.           

Where to Stay in Strasbourg

We’ve only visited Strasbourg during the holiday season. I am sure it’s beautiful at any time of year, but there is a certain magic that Strasbourg has during Christmas. Deciding where to stay in Strasbourg was a little bit easier because there aren’t a lot of luxury hotels in Strasbourg, and I really wanted a spa. Most of the best hotels in Strasbourg are located close to Petite France and the other major sites.

We loved both of these boutique hotels in Strasbourg, but they had very different vibes. The Regent Petite France Pavillion had a more modern room with beautiful views of the river. Le Bouciler, by comparison, felt more regal with antique furnishings.

Hotel & Spa Regent Petite France

On our second trip to Alsace, we started our trip in Strasbourg, the capital of Christmas.  I went back to my original Alsace hotel list and decided on the Regent Petite France in the Pavilion building.  The Pavilion annex houses 17 modern rooms overlooking one of the canals in Petite France in Strasbourg.  It is a 30 second walk to the main Regent Petite France hotel, which houses over 80 rooms.  I loved how quiet the Pavilion building was, especially since we were visiting during the Strasbourg Christmas markets.  While Strasbourg was busy, the Regent Petite France was always quiet. This is one of the best places to stay in Strasbourg if you want to appreciate the Christmas markets but not be IN the middle of everything.

Our room overlooked the moving bridge – something you have to see to believe – and we were surrounded by Michelin Star restaurants.  One thing to know about Alsace is that you ALWAYS need reservations.  When we arrived in Strasbourg, the restaurants let us know that they had been booked for more than three weeks.  Fortunately, Christmas market food is delicious and I’ve never been let down by a boulangerie in France.     

Regent Petite France Pavillon Privilege Room

I think the French are geniuses when it comes to using space effectively.  Our room was an L-shape with four sets of windows overlooking one of the canals of Petite France.  I loved the light throughout the day, the accordion music in the early evenings, and felt comfortable leaving the windows open at night to cool our room down (yes, even in winter)!  

We had a small desk and a small sitting area, which meant that Tom and I both had somewhere to sit and enjoy our makeshift picnic dinners.  Our room offered tea service, a mini fridge, and a safe in a small armoire.  The closet was tiny with only a few hangers, but it is sufficient.  There are several shelves available for storage.  

The bathroom offers a separate sink and toilet area, which was really nice.  There was a large walk-in shower with dual sinks.  Bath amenities were Kos (which I also tried at the Hotel du Louvre in Paris), water pressure was good, and we had no issue with hot water.  It was well-lit, very clean, and extremely comfortable for two people.  The heated towel rack was really nice, especially in the evenings.  I would warm up my nap dress before putting it on – how cozy!  

Regent Petite France Spa

For two of our four days in Strasbourg, we made reservations at the Regent Petite France spa.  It is located on the first floor (second for Americans!) in the main building and overlooks the canals of Petite France.  We didn’t book a treatment, but we enjoyed the outdoor jacuzzi, the sauna and steam room, and especially the salt cave.  The spa staff was very friendly and helpful.

They offer lockers for you to store your stuff, but it is easiest to come over fully dressed.  You might get a couple of stares if you’re making your way from the Pavilion to the spa in your swimsuit and robe in December, but just know that you’re about to have an amazing view and a relaxing experience in a lovely spa. 

You’ll want to make your reservations in advance.  COVID protocols limit the number of people allowed in the spa, and it was certainly busy while we were there!  The staff was wonderful about accommodating us though!  I never wanted to leave!       

Le Bouclier d’Or Strasbourg

In November 2022, we traveled to Strasbourg with my mom. Regent Petite France only had one room available, so I went back to my research on the best hotels in Strasbourg. We ended up at Le Bouclier d’Or Hotel & Spa. We booked two comfort rooms, and both of us received the the “Bourgeoises” rooms in different parts of the hotel. Our first floor room overlooked the courtyard; my mom’s ground-floor room overlooked the street.

Comfort Room 7

The Le Bouclier d’Or is grand with traditional French style. The furniture are antiques, the drapes are heavy silks and brocades, there are elegant chandeliers, and their are wooden floors adorned with rugs. Our room was decorated for Christmas, and they were adorning all the windows with wreathes when we checked out. Both the linens and the mattress were very comfortable. It is a completely different vibe Regent Petite Hotel and Spa and Maison des Tetes.

The large walk-in marble shower offered outstanding water pressure. The bath amenities were Pure Herbs, a European brand I hadn’t tried. Our bathroom offered dual sinks, plush bathrobes for the spa, and plenty of light. If you are choosing among the best places to stay in Strasbourg, you’ll have to choose the aesthetic that fits your personal style.

Le Bouclier d’Or Strasbourg Spa

My massage at the Le Bouclier d’Or spa was incredible and very relaxing. They also have a lovely sauna, plunge pool, and whirlpool. The cavernous spa reminds me of the 5 Terres Hotel and Spa in Barr or the Monastero di Cortona spa, and the skylight reminds me of Borgo dei Conti. It’s very, very relaxing and feels a world away from the bustle of Strasbourg.

Where to Go in Alsace

Deciding where to go in Alsace is dependent on what you are looking for out of the experience and what your expectations are for hotels.  I knew I wanted to stay at spa hotels and I prefer 4 and 5 star accommodations.  (I don’t do AirBnB.)  To that end, Strasbourg, Kaysersberg and Barr had the best luxury accommodations for us during the off season.  There are a lot more options if you travel in the spring and the summer. I’ve highlighted the rooms and spas of Le Chambard and 5 Terres Hotel & Spa  in our 2019 Alsace video below to give you a better sense of what the hotels were like. (Photos don’t always do hotel rooms justice, and I think that is especially true for the Chambard room.  It was very difficult to photograph.)  The details of the villages that we visited are also highlighted in this video, too.

I know there is a lot of debate about whether you should stay in Colmar or Strasbourg, but they offer completely different experiences. Strasbourg is a big city, where as Colmar is a small town. Both offer exceptional Christmas markets and direct trains to and from Paris. I don’t think you can go wrong if you stay in Strasbourg or Colmar, but they aren’t interchangable in my mind.

All of the smaller villages have a lot more charm than Strasbourg, but you shouldn’t miss Strasbourg, and especially the Cathedral. Since it is such an easy jumping off point for exploring the Alsace region, I would spend a couple of days there and move on to the more picturesque towns and villages of Alsace.  

Quieter Towns in Alsace

I think that Kaysersberg, Barr, and Riquewihr are the smaller, quaint villages that feel lived in, quieter and more local.  We liked them all for different reasons.  I liked Kaysersberg for the natural beauty of the landscape against the town.  The river running through town felt more naturally beautiful than Colmar.  Barr was enjoyable because it felt very local.  It was easy to see that people lived in the village and the shops catered to normal citizens going about their daily lives, rather than souvenirs.  I loved Riquewihr for the art galleries that we visited.  Beyond buying more Alsatian cookies, I would love to do more wine tasting there.  We did a delightful Alsatian wine tasting in nearby Hunawihr and regularly ship it to Paris when we’re going to be there for a few days now.

We did visit Eguisheim, and it truly feels like a fairytale village in every respect.  Tom really loved it (he’s a big fan of Beauty and the Beast), but it felt a little too perfect, a little too quiet, and a little too empty for me.  That said, I would like to go back during shoulder season, do some wine tasting, and see if it feels different during a busy time.  They did seem to have many tasting rooms that were open to the public.

More Lively Alsace Towns to Visit

Colmar and Ribeauville feel a lot larger and are good places to stay if you want a more lively stay.  We had some delicious meals in Colmar and really loved the market.  Petite Venise is beautiful, but it felt a little too perfect at times.  That said, I enjoyed returning to Colmar, especially for the Christmas markets. As with most places, there is a lot to do there that we didn’t get around to seeing.  The Colmar covered market had a lot of tasty treats and both Tom and I agreed that we should have purchased more things to try there.